http://www.articletrader.com/ Articles at ArticleTrader en-us http://www.articletrader.com/home-and-family/pets/would-you-kiss-my-dog.html http://www.articletrader.com/home-and-family/pets/would-you-kiss-my-dog.html Thu, 29 Nov 2007 00:00:00 -0600
As a child growing up in the boonies of Alabama we had a succession of dogs, some memorable and some I'd rather forget. One thing they all had in common is a trait all dogs everywhere participate in with gusto, one in which prevents me to this day from allowing a dog anywhere near my mouth.

Early on in life, while still blissfully unaware, I had no qualms in allowing the current family's dog the liberty of indulging itself in a round of good-natured face-licking. After all this is for most people one of the most endearing aspect of canine ownership, letting the mutt shower them with doggie kisses for as long as the dogs owner could stand it. The pooch thinks it is showing its owner the proper display of submissive behavior and affection and believe me when I tell you that a dog will slobber all over you as long as you allow it.

As I said before, my early years were spent in blissful unawareness of Fido's hygienic tendencies. Thinking about that very aspect of doggie behavior today brings back the gag reflex I experienced when I finally discovered, far too late unfortunately, how the mutt went about its daily ablutions.

The dog we had at the time, if I recall, was a stray that sort of drifted in one day and decided to stay and see which way the wind blew. I saw him as companion for my many explorations back into the hills and ridges of the Appalachians. To give credit where credit is due I will say that dog was a champion walker. He would accompany me as long and as far as I asked him too.

Now to the gist of this story. I remember it was a scorching hot August day. One of those kind of days where the air was thick and hard to breath. Anyway I was lounging on the front porch, enjoying a cold drink, and not paying attention to anything in particular. A movement caught my eye and I saw our dog coming down the road towards the house, returning from who knows what type of foray. About a block from the property I saw him stop suddenly and peer intently at something at his feet. Then he eased himself down onto the ground and started rolling around on his back, legs flailing the air, tongue lolling out, and appearing to be in a state of puppy bliss. Needless to say this aroused my attention. I stood up and wandered over to see what had gotten the dog all excited. Was there such a thing as dognip?

Arriving on the scene my eyes were met with the disgusting spectacle of the dog rolling in the partially decomposed remains of some poor creature that wasn't able to dodge fast enough. The way the dog was carrying on you would have thought he had discovered the next greatest scent guaranteed to sweep the lady dogs off their feet. He spent a good ten minutes covering every square inch of his body with the essence of the carcass. He even belly-crawled over it a few times just to make sure no spot was missed.

Once he completed this gruesome task he stood up, shook himself off, gave me a sideways glance, and headed for the porch. I stood there in shock for a second, barely able to believe what I had just witnessed. Finally gathering my wits about me I decided it would be prudent to put as much distance between me and the dog as possible. My plan was to casually walk by him (holding my breath of course), enter the front door, and escape quietly out the back door and make for the hills as fast as my legs would carry me for the remainder of the day. My reasoning was if I was several miles away I wouldn't have to put up with the smell and best of all one of the other kids would have to give the dog a bath once the rest of the family caught wind of it.

Just about when I put my hand on the door handle to let myself in I noticed the dog engaged in yet another of the favorite pastimes of dogs everywhere. He had commenced licking himself over every inch of his body that he could reach. My stomach started doing flip-flops because I knew where he had been less than a minute prior, but for some unknown reason I was transfixed. I could not walk away. Some morbid part of me wanted to see just how far and how long this dog would go with this spectacle.

For a good half hour I bore witness as this dog slurped himself from stem to stern, spending an inordinate amount of time in the stern area if you get my meaning. With disgust and fascination I watched the whole gruesome process, sitting down at some point to see if it would help the nausea I felt coming on.

Once his ablutions were over he licked his chops as if he had just finished a choice sirloin, set his sights on me, and before I could react, pounced towards me with a twinkle in his eye and a bounce in his step. Upon later reflection I finally reasoned he wanted to thank me for "sharing" the experience by offering me some of that love and affection dogs are famous for.

Instinct took over at that point and I engaged in a hasty retreat, crab-walking backwards with the dog getting ever closer, intent on showering me with attention. I stumbled slightly and he saw this as his chance. He lunged at my face with his mouth open and his tongue ready to give me the love and affection he felt I deserved as his master.

Things moved pretty much in a blur at this point which is understandable considering the speed in which I moved. I vaguely remember attempting to pull my head down between my shoulders like a turtle to prevent direct contact while at the same time levitating myself to the porch railing, just barely escaping the dog and his cesspool of a mouth.

Realizing he had missed his chance he looked a little contrite and hurt that I should deny him what he felt was his righteous duty. Between a fit of hyper-gagging and impaired vision brought on by the fumes emanating wafting about the porch I managed to warn him off and escaped into the house.

After awhile I calmed myself down and started thinking about my previous escape plan and the possibility of putting it into action while I still could when I was overcome with a sudden sense of dread. I suddenly remembered that the previous day I had allowed this same dog, the very one who had just spent almost an hour in the most revolting display I had ever witnessed, kiss me square on the mouth.

I wont go into what happened next other than to say it took me about a week, three giant tubes of toothpaste, and a couple of king-sized bottles of Listerine before I got the taste out of my mouth.

Think about it folks. You might want to reconsider if PoochyPoo and his dog bad breath want to share with you where his tongue has been just before he came over to give you a smack on the lips.

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Chuck Lunsford is the owner and developer of EliminateYourBadBreath.com,a well-known source for dog bad breath cures and remedies. If you have more questions about other bad breath topics visit us at for bad breath products that work.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/home-and-family/home-improvement/some-common-easy-to-fix-plumbing-issues-for-the-do-it-yourselfers.html http://www.articletrader.com/home-and-family/home-improvement/some-common-easy-to-fix-plumbing-issues-for-the-do-it-yourselfers.html Wed, 21 Nov 2007 00:00:00 -0600
The replacement of the anode rod is fairly simple and straightforward. Turn off the cold water supply to your water heater first. Next, turn off the gas line or the circuit breaker. Using a standard garden hose attached to the drain at the bottom of the heater, remove several gallons of water. Remove the anode rod with a pipe wrench or similar tool. Sometimes a long handled tool is necessary to get enough leverage to loosen the fitting.

Purchase a comparable anode rod at your local hardware store, home center or plumbing supply house. If a bendable rod is available, consider purchasing it to make installation easier if you have little headroom to work with. Remember, the old rod will probably be only a fragment of its original length and won’t give you a true idea of the room you need to install its replacement. Before installing the new anode rod, wrap the threads with Teflon tape to create a better seal. Make a note of when you made the replacement on or near the water heater (my wife recently asked me when the I replaced the air filter on our furnace – I said it was just a few weeks ago – actually it was seven weeks earlier – time does have a habit of getting away from us).

Another problem that homeowners face with water heaters are occasional bumps and other strange sounds coming from their water heater. These noises are a result of steam that is being generated inside the water heater. This steam results from the flame heating accumulated junk resting on the bottom of the heater. The water lodged inside the junk becomes hot enough to create steam bubbles, which eventually rise and turn back into hot water. When these steam bubbles burst, they create those unpleasant sounds.

Unfortunately, if you have hard water, this junk in the form of scale and sediment form fairly quickly and need to be drained every few weeks. You need to put this task on the calendar (you do have a calendar?) so time doesn’t slip away. Nearly all hot water heaters have a drain near the bottom of the tank. Using a standard garden hoe, drain off several gallons of water that should be loaded with the aforementioned junk. When you eventually replace the water heater, look for a model that has a device built-in that reduces the volume of sediment that builds up.

Lime buildup is common in toilet bowls. The fix is easy. First, shut off the valve that supplies water to the toilet and then flush the toilet several times until it is empty. Soak paper towels with distilled white vinegar and lay them over the lime deposits letting them soak for a few hours. After removing the towels, use a scrub brush to remove any remaining lime sediment.

For the ambitious, you can keep your house drains open by using a recipe of a cup of baking soda, a cup of regular salt and a fourth of a cup of cream of tartar powder. You only need about a quarter of a cup of this solution per drain, adding a few cups of boiling water as a chaser.

Ah, the caulking between the tub and the wall. It seems that no matter who does the job or what they use, cracks will eventually appear. Before making repairs, fill the tub with water, which will weigh it down slightly. Roll up your pants (or whatever) and apply the caulk. When you drain the tub, it moves upward slightly, compressing the caulk and eliminating the possibility of ending up with new cracks the first time you use the bathtub.

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Chuck Lunsford is the content manager for LightnBreezy.com, a well-known source for home improvement ceiling fans and lighting fixtures. If you have more questions about other home repair topics visit us at do-it-yourself plumbing repairs.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/finance/real-estate/no-successful-real-estate-investing-team-is-complete-without-a-competent-attorney.html http://www.articletrader.com/finance/real-estate/no-successful-real-estate-investing-team-is-complete-without-a-competent-attorney.html Wed, 21 Nov 2007 00:00:00 -0600
What are some of the qualities and expertise a good real estate attorney should have?

• Can they help you with your contracts in a timely fashion?

• Will they make sure you are compliant with the local state’s laws where you made or are planning to make a purchase?

• Should be able to help you assign contracts legally and easily.

• Be able settle any disputes that might arise.

• If you own rental property help with tenant issues.

• Point out any loopholes in a real estate contract and partnership agreement that could have a negative impact on your real estate business.

• Help you keep as much of your profits as legally and ethically possible.

The role of real estate attorneys is also being expanded by the increased complexity of the arrangements and the shorter time frame in which clients expect the deals to be done. Real estate investors cannot afford to wait for deals to happen. They are in the business to make a profit. The longer they have to wait for a contract to be reviewed, or a dispute to be resolved cost the investor more and more money day after day after day.

Finding the real estate attorney to suit your needs is no simple undertaking. If you plan on pre-foreclosure investing, as many real estate investors today are, then it is all the more important to obtain the services of a competent lawyer. Remember this is the person you are going to be leaning heavily on to keep you out of legal hot water. You want to focus your energies on creative and successful real estate investing and unless you have the time and patience to go through the phone book calling every real estate attorney listed then I suggest you ask for referrals. One good referral source is to contact the local REIA (Real Estate Investor Association) in the area you are interested in. If you know attorneys who specialize in other areas of the law ask them who they might recommend. Do not rush this selection process. If you do you may end up with an attorney who gets you into more trouble than if you never had one in the first place.

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REIMarketingTips.com has earned its solid reputation by helping both seasoned and beginning real estate investors learn the best methods for effective creative real estate investing. Visit our website at www.BestForeclsureSystem.com to get started now!

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/home-and-family/home-improvement/issues-with-roofs-part-2.html http://www.articletrader.com/home-and-family/home-improvement/issues-with-roofs-part-2.html Tue, 20 Nov 2007 00:00:00 -0600
Part 2 will touch on typical problems with shingles and what a homeowner can do about these problems.

The most typical problems homeowners face with their shingling involves those that have some buckling and those that are bubbled or mounded. Moisture is the primary culprit involved in creating both of these unsightly problems (problems that also affect the integrity of the roof’s ability to protect your home from leaks). What usually happens is that inadequate ventilation in the attic results in condensation and resulting pressure from moisture underneath the shingles. If the problem isn’t too serious, the affected shingles can be forced back down by using common plastic roofing mastic (glue). Before doing this, make sure that the surface under the shingle(s) is dry. After applying the material, use a weighted object to hold the shingle(s) down until the adhesive substance dries. Using a hair dryer to soften the shingle(s) can often speed-up the process.

Older roofs usually have their share of chipped, ripped and worn-out shingles. If this is apparent on most of the roof’s surface, hiring a professional to replace the entire roof is probably your best bet. If there are multiple layers of shingles, adding another layer may not be a good idea and you might instead opt for a complete tear down which involves having all the shingles ripped out and replaced with a new layer.

If you have a modest number of damaged shingles, you may want to do the fix up yourself. Hopefully, you can find shingles that match or are a close match to the existing shingles. Some minor cosmetic treatment will make these replacement shingles blend in to the existing shingles. The best way to do this is to use a solvent such as mineral spirits to lightly coat the replacement shingle(s). Wash off the solvent and some of the surface will be removed simulating the effect of weathering. A little trial and error may be necessary to get this right.

Remove the bad shingle(s) using caution not to damage adjacent shingling. If nails were used, carefully remove them. Starting with the bottom-most shingle(s), make sure the surface is completely dry and then use one inch or slightly smaller roofing nails to fasten the replacement shingle by nailing above the tabs. Use roofing cement for the top most shingles and pressing it into place, lift up the shingle immediately above it and nail down the replaced shingle.

While you’re on the roof, inspect the flashing around vents and the chimney(s). This area is frequently the culprit in leaking roofs. Chip out any cracked or loose cement and then put a fresh layer of roofing cement over the area. To be on the safe side, it won’t hurt to coat the entire flashing with cement just in case there are some hairline cracks etc.

To be on the safe side, if you have considerable roof work to do, use a rented scaffolding unit instead of trusting a ladder.

This brief article certainly doesn’t cover the entire subject of making roof repairs but it will help anyone with fairly minor problems that need attention.

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Chuck Lunsford is the content manager for LightnBreezy.com, a well-known source for home improvement ceiling fans. If you have more questions about other home repair topics take a look at do-it-yourself home improvements and roof repairs.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/finance/real-estate/the-foreclosure-situation-in-boulder-county-colorado-is-still-unstable.html http://www.articletrader.com/finance/real-estate/the-foreclosure-situation-in-boulder-county-colorado-is-still-unstable.html Tue, 20 Nov 2007 00:00:00 -0600
Like most places in the United States Boulder County continues to see declining home values and over-leveraged properties. The foreclosure situation also varies from town to town the same as it is doing across the country. The difficult part is that the banks aren't discounting enough yet to turn around and sell for a substantial discount to an end buyer or rehabber.

The root cause for the foreclosure problem in Boulder County is falling property values as well as over leveraged ARM loans, a problem common in other parts of the state and country as well.

In Boulder County the typical foreclosure filings are from average working class families that got hooked into the adjustable ARM loans and borrowed over 100% of the value and now can't make the larger payments when they adjust.

As predicted earlier this year foreclosure filings in Boulder County are going up and should continue to do so for one more year while the ARM's continue to adjust.

It is believed in 2008 that foreclosures will peak and begin to slowly come down over time.

The percentage of increase in foreclosures is still running in the double-digits as Boulder County is seeing a 15% increase over last years numbers.

The state and local government has helped, of sorts. Colorado has changed the laws to protect the homeowner but has not done anything to help out the homeowner except for websites to let the homeowner know their options.

There is help available as Boulder stop foreclosure expert explained. They offer homeowners help to stop foreclosure. If they want to keep their home there is the option to do forbearance with their banks or refinance. The challenge with these options is most homeowners don't qualify for either so then they are offered an opportunity to do a short sale or save their remaining credit.

Boulder County is seeing a lot of overleveraged homeowners in the county with either zero, or worse yet, no equity in their property. For those in this situation the only option seems to be performing a short sale. Others who may have waited too long sadly walk away and let their homes go to auction.

Stopping home foreclosure in Boulder County, Colorado calls for immediate action the same as it does in all other parts of the country. As we have heard it's going to get worse before it gets better. If you have found this article while looking for help to stop foreclosure then the very best advice we can give is to act now.

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SaveMeFromForeClosure.com has earned its solid reputation by helping homeowners stop foreclosure in Boulder County, Colorado industry. Want to know how we can help you choose the right stop foreclosure expert?? Visit our website or call us at 1-888-472-8380 for a no-obligation consultation.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/home-and-family/home-improvement/selecting-the-right-paint-brush-for-the-job.html http://www.articletrader.com/home-and-family/home-improvement/selecting-the-right-paint-brush-for-the-job.html Fri, 02 Nov 2007 00:00:00 -0500
Well, there’s a lot more to it and your choice of paint brush(es) can have a dramatic effect on the final appearance of the area you’re planning to paint. This brief primer is designed to provide you with some tips and information about matching the brush with the job that needs to be done.

The first thing to consider is the type of paint you will be using. There are basically two types of paint on the market: water-based and oil and alkyd-based. Water-based paints need brushes that absorb water easily and make applying it evenly a simple chore. On the other hand, an oil and alkyd-based paint need brushes that are made of natural bristles.

Synthetic filaments are the right match for water-based paints. Synthetics include bristles made of either nylon or polyester. Nylon brushes are probably your best choice although they may be a bit more expensive than their polyester counterparts. When considering a synthetic brush you have a choice of three basic shapes. The hollow brush is usually the cheapest and is not my first recommendation. The solid brush is a good choice. It is easy to hold and fairly easy to clean. Consequently, a well taken care of solid brush will give you the best in terms of cost effectiveness because it will last longer than the other two types. Finally, there’s the cross-sectional style bush which is probably the cheapest and a good selection if you’re one of those “use it once and throw it a way” types.

Brushes made from natural bristles are, again, to be the brush(es) of choice if you are using other than a water-based paint. The problem with using a natural-bristle brush with a water-based paint is that they tend to swell up and are just hard to use. Yes, you can paint water-based paint with them, but why make the job even more difficult than it already is by using a brush that’s not designed for the paint that you are using?

Natural-bristles are typically made from pig’s hair and will keep their shape when you are painting with oil-based paint. Since solvents are necessary to clean brushes used with oil-based paint, you need a brush that will handle the solvents used without becoming a throwaway. Pig’s hair bristles will handle nearly all types of solvents without any problems.

Take a look at the end of the paintbrushes you are considering. You’ll see that some brushes have tips that are called “flagged” while others have tips that are ragged in appearance. Flagged tips are somewhat tapered and are designed to let the brush hold more paint and then apply it smoothly and evenly on the surface you are painting. Some of the latest paints have a reduced solvent content which make them heavier and consequently they don’t flow easily with brushes that have flagged tips.

As far as applications go, a sash type bush is angled but sometimes are squared off. These are smaller brushes, generally running from one to two and a half inches wide. These brushes are used for painting baseboards, window trim and molding. Trim brushes are generally two or three inches wide and are squared off. These brushed are most often used to paint wall corners, cabinets and the edge of ceilings where the ceiling joins the wall. These brushes are also used to paint decorative or styled doors. Finally, wall brushes are usually thick, running three to five inches in width. They are designed to hold considerable paint to make can dipping less frequent. These brushes are squared off.

I hope that this brief article will provide you with some guidelines in picking the right brush for the job.

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Chuck Lunsford is the content manager for LightnBreezy.com, a well-known source for home improvement Westinghouse lighting fixtures. If you have more questions about other home repair topics visit us at do-it-yourself painting.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/home-and-family/home-improvement/issues-with-roofs-part-1.html http://www.articletrader.com/home-and-family/home-improvement/issues-with-roofs-part-1.html Fri, 02 Nov 2007 00:00:00 -0500
If the damage is minor (scratches or small cuts) the damage can be repaired with a liquid seam sealer that is available wherever vinyl flooring is sold. Make sure you have the right kind of gloves to protect your hands from direct contact with the lacquer thinner you will need to use to clean the damaged area. After using the thinner to clean the area and after it has completely dried, apply a very thin bead of the liquid seam sealer that will fill the scratch or cut. When it has dried, the repair will make the damage virtually invisible.

If you didn’t have the foresight to purchase extra floor tiles, you may have an area (such as under an appliance) with a piece of floor tile that you can remove and use as a replacement piece for the damaged tile. Unfortunately, most floor tiles are tightly bonded to the floor and chances are that you will not be able to remove the replacement piece without damaging it. If you’re lucky and the tile floor isn’t very old, you may be able to purchase identical piece(s) from where you purchased the original tile. Unfortunately, floor tile styles and patterns are frequently discontinued and replaced with newer styles so your chances of finding a match aren’t very good.

If your vinyl tiles were professionally installed, the installer may have left several scraps or complete tiles for you to use for repairs.

A technique called double cutting is used to repair sheet vinyl flooring (and sometimes, vinyl tiles). Again, you will need a piece of vinyl flooring that includes the pattern identical to the damaged area. Cut a patch that matches the section of flooring that needs to be replaced. Assuming that the damaged area is in a rectangular or square patterned area with borders, cut the patch on the outside of these borders. Using masking tape or something similar, tape the patch over the area that has been damaged making certain that patch is exactly lined-up with the damaged area and that the tape is not covering the edges of the patch. Place a straightedge on the top of the patch lined up with one of the borders (also called pattern lines). Using a utility knife with a new blade, hold the blade vertically and cut through the damaged area along the pattern line using the edge of the patch as a guide.

Be careful not to cut into adjacent, undamaged tile. Repeat this process for the remaining three sides of the patch. Remove the patch and peel up the damaged area with a putty knife or some type of scraping tool. Some tile will be easy to pry up while other sections that have been heavily glued won’t be so easy to remove. Be patient. When the damaged section has been removed, make sure that the floor surface is fairly smooth. You may need to use the putty knife or even some coarse sandpaper to smooth the area so that the patch will fit flush to the adjacent vinyl flooring. Insert the patch to make sure it fits perfectly. After removing it, spread mastic on the bare floor area and push a little mastic under the adjacent vinyl flooring if it can be lifted slightly.

Put the patch into place and clean off any mastic that may have seeped up through the seams of the patch. Cover the patch with waxed paper and then put a heavy object or two on top of the waxed paper and wait for at least a day for the mastic to completely dry. After removing the weights and the waxed paper, seal the joints around the patch with liquid seam sealer. This process should provide you with a repair that is virtually invisible.

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Chuck Lunsford is the content manager for LightnBreezy.com, a well-known source for home improvement ceiling fans. If you have more questions about other home repair topics visit us at do-it-yourself roof repairs.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/home-and-family/home-improvement/vinyl-flooring-fix-ups.html http://www.articletrader.com/home-and-family/home-improvement/vinyl-flooring-fix-ups.html Fri, 02 Nov 2007 00:00:00 -0500
If the damage is minor (scratches or small cuts) the damage can be repaired with a liquid seam sealer that is available wherever vinyl flooring is sold. Make sure you have the right kind of gloves to protect your hands from direct contact with the lacquer thinner you will need to use to clean the damaged area. After using the thinner to clean the area and after it has completely dried, apply a very thin bead of the liquid seam sealer that will fill the scratch or cut. When it has dried, the repair will make the damage virtually invisible.

If you didn’t have the foresight to purchase extra floor tiles, you may have an area (such as under an appliance) with a piece of floor tile that you can remove and use as a replacement piece for the damaged tile. Unfortunately, most floor tiles are tightly bonded to the floor and chances are that you will not be able to remove the replacement piece without damaging it. If you’re lucky and the tile floor isn’t very old, you may be able to purchase identical piece(s) from where you purchased the original tile. Unfortunately, floor tile styles and patterns are frequently discontinued and replaced with newer styles so your chances of finding a match aren’t very good.

If your vinyl tiles were professionally installed, the installer may have left several scraps or complete tiles for you to use for repairs.

A technique called double cutting is used to repair sheet vinyl flooring (and sometimes, vinyl tiles). Again, you will need a piece of vinyl flooring that includes the pattern identical to the damaged area. Cut a patch that matches the section of flooring that needs to be replaced. Assuming that the damaged area is in a rectangular or square patterned area with borders, cut the patch on the outside of these borders. Using masking tape or something similar, tape the patch over the area that has been damaged making certain that patch is exactly lined-up with the damaged area and that the tape is not covering the edges of the patch. Place a straightedge on the top of the patch lined up with one of the borders (also called pattern lines). Using a utility knife with a new blade, hold the blade vertically and cut through the damaged area along the pattern line using the edge of the patch as a guide.

Be careful not to cut into adjacent, undamaged tile. Repeat this process for the remaining three sides of the patch. Remove the patch and peel up the damaged area with a putty knife or some type of scraping tool. Some tile will be easy to pry up while other sections that have been heavily glued won’t be so easy to remove. Be patient. When the damaged section has been removed, make sure that the floor surface is fairly smooth. You may need to use the putty knife or even some coarse sandpaper to smooth the area so that the patch will fit flush to the adjacent vinyl flooring. Insert the patch to make sure it fits perfectly. After removing it, spread mastic on the bare floor area and push a little mastic under the adjacent vinyl flooring if it can be lifted slightly.

Put the patch into place and clean off any mastic that may have seeped up through the seams of the patch. Cover the patch with waxed paper and then put a heavy object or two on top of the waxed paper and wait for at least a day for the mastic to completely dry. After removing the weights and the waxed paper, seal the joints around the patch with liquid seam sealer. This process should provide you with a repair that is virtually invisible.

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Chuck Lunsford is the content manager for LightnBreezy.com, a well-known source for home improvement Westinghouse ceiling fans. If you have more questions about other home repair topics visit us at do-it-yourself floor repairs.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/business/procrastination-is-causing-many-homeowners-to-act-too-late-to-stop-foreclosure.html http://www.articletrader.com/business/procrastination-is-causing-many-homeowners-to-act-too-late-to-stop-foreclosure.html Wed, 31 Oct 2007 00:00:00 -0500
Fear comes in great many guises. For a homeowner wanting to stop home foreclosure the fear of loss may be overwhelming which unfortunately doesn't always prompt one into action. Fear also causes indecision, which seems to be the case for people looking to avoid home foreclosure, yet spin their wheels without taking any action whatsoever. Ignorance of the foreclosure process and options to prevent a foreclosure is another reason people stay rooted in place for too long until it's too late.

The best advice I could give is to take action. Act now, not tomorrow or even next week. It sounds simple enough in theory, yet many people are still trapped in inaction, but the very act of taking any kind of positive step in the right direction makes the next step even easier to take.

Who should you contact first? The very first phone call you make should be your lender. This may seem intimidating as they are the very ones who warned you that your home is now in the foreclosure process. Try thinking about this in a different way, and put yourself in the place of the lender. They are concerned and probably a little bit afraid themselves because if you the homeowner, through your inaction, allow the lender to take the home back they are stuck with yet another property that they really don't want. This is the primary concern of every lender. Every instance of another foreclosure lessens their revenue stream, and this has a domino effect throughout not just the lender's company but the entire economy as well.

It may come as a surprise but most lenders will be happy you called, and not so they can blast you for getting behind on your mortgage payments in the first place. Remember, they want you to keep your home and many lenders will go to great lengths to work with you to make this happen.

Now that you've overcome your initial fear and contacted the lender it's time to go over some options available to stop foreclosure. The standard methods lenders uses when a person says they want to "save my home" are as follows:

Refinance the current loan – Given the current lending restrictions this may be the hardest option to accomplish. Refinancing for most people in the best of situations can be a long and difficult process and if you are already one or two payments behind on your mortgage that will make it all the more harder. One key element in a foreclosure situation is that the loan to value (LTV) requirements be met. Lenders are very strict about only refinancing when a LTV meets their guidelines. If your appraisal does not fall within the LTV guidelines that the lender has set then they will not underwrite your loan.

Loan modification - If you can currently make your regular payment, but you can't catch up with the past-due amount, the lender folds any past-due amounts, including interest and escrow, into the unpaid principal balance. This new amount will be re-amortized over a new period of time.

Payment forbearance - Here you are allowed to pay the overdue amount, plus penalties and interest, over a specified period of time. Typically the past due amount is added to the end of the mortgage. Keep in mind the approval process for this option can take up to two months. If for whatever reason your repayment plan is rejected this is time wasted and the lender may not inform you have only a few days before your home is repossessed.

There are more exotic solutions, but the three stop foreclosure options stated above are the most commonly used. One thing I need to mention is you are going to have to prove to the lender that the situation that caused you to get behind in the first place has been rectified and you now have the ability to continue making your mortgage payments.

It is a sad fact that homeowners threatened with losing their homes due to foreclosure do not know what to do, when to do it, available options, and how the whole foreclosure process works. No family wants to face this situation, yet everyday in this country homes are foreclosed on that otherwise could have avoided the auction block if someone had simply taken the first step. Stressful situations affect people's motivation. We will perhaps never know, or understand, why some people will sit timidly by and allow their home to be lost while others take up the challenge and pursue every avenue available to stop foreclosure.

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SaveMeFromForeClosure.com has earned its solid reputation by helping homeowners stop home foreclosure industry. Want to know how we can help you keep my home? Visit our website or call us at 1-888-472-8380 for a no-obligation consultation.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/business/can-you-still-stop-foreclosure-in-the-current-housing-crisis.html http://www.articletrader.com/business/can-you-still-stop-foreclosure-in-the-current-housing-crisis.html Wed, 24 Oct 2007 00:00:00 -0500
These days' homeowners trying to stop foreclosure are asking whether they qualify for help. In spite of what one may have heard it is fairly easy to determine if you can get help to avoid foreclosure. The basic pre-qualifying questions are:

1. Do you want to keep your home?

2. Is your mortgage payments are 3 or more months behind?

3. Have you taken steps to rectify the situation that caused you to fall behind on your payments to start with?

4. If you can honestly answer yes to all the above questions there may be help available.

Now you have to determine what stop foreclosure option would work best for your particular situation. Just how many options are available and which is the right one for you?

Should you consider filing for bankruptcy?
This is an option using a Chapter 13 bankruptcy where you agree to pay back all creditors under a court approver plan. Keep in mind this is not so easy to do anymore with the new bankruptcy restrictions put in place making it much harder to file. Also consider the long-term ramifications on your credit.

Is an attorney the right answer when looking at foreclosure prevention options?
There are relatively few attorneys that actually specialize in foreclosures. Many that claim they do are actually bankruptcy attorneys with little or no experience in foreclosure matters.

What if you allow your lender foreclose on your home?
It is in your best interest to do everything you can to keep your home off the auction block. Allowing the home to go back to the lender makes it almost impossible to finance a home in the future. You would actually be better off filing bankruptcy before allowing the lender to take back your home.

Are you able to exercise the option to refinance your mortgage.?
Given your specific situation refinancing a loan isn’t always the best solution. Refinancing for most people in the best of situations can be a long and difficult process and if you are already one or two payments behind on your mortgage that will make it all the more harder. This is when a knowledgeable consultant is invaluable for guiding through your decision making.

What is a stop foreclosure service and can they save your home from foreclosure?
The main argument for hiring a company to help you stop foreclosure is the looming deadline. Time is working against you. Their expertise is in dealing with this issue on a daily basis. They have the resources, experience, and support networks in place to call into action at a moments notice.

So can you stop home foreclosure in the current housing environment? The answer is yes but deciding which option to use to keep your home can be a difficult one. The best advice is too take action and seek professional help well before the problem becomes to much to handle on your own.

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SaveMeFromForeClosure.com has earned its solid reputation by helping homeowners stop home foreclosure industry. Want to know how we can help you avoid home foreclosure? Visit our website or call us at 1-888-472-8380 for a no-obligation consultation.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]>