Latest Articles by Eric Badgely

Crawl Space Water

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0500

A common problem in the Pacific Northwest is standing water in a crawl space or a basement. In the wet climate in the northwest, even a missing vapor barrier over crawl space soil can lead to several gallons of water evaporating from the soil into the crawl space and up into the home and finally out to the atmosphere through the attic and roof ventilation system. Any experienced home inspector can tell you that, long term, standing water in the crawl space can cause serious mold or rot concerns inside the home and in the crawl space and the attic.

People do not realize how much water is actually contained in a puddle of crawl space water. For example, let us assume that a crawl space has a pool of standing water that is about 20 feet long, 15 feet wide and 4 inches deep. Sounds like plenty of water, but that amounts to 750 gallons of water that will, day in, day out, be evaporating up into the home. When that puddle of water is described in those terms, it sure gets a person’s attention.

What can be done about it? Well, that depends. Sometimes solving the problem involves controlling gutter and downspout water or re-grading soil around the home. Other times it might involve putting additional gravel in the crawl space or even installing a pump. If it is possible to do so, it is always best to avoid using mechanical means to drain the water. Gravity is more reliable and there are no bearings to wear out!

This article was produced by the writing team of Eric Badgley & Angee Gardner; specializing in Lake Samish Real Estate and Bellingham Washington Real Estate.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com

Multi-Unit Dwellings and Fire What a Buyer Should Know

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0500

A detail-oriented home inspector, who is inspecting a newer multi-unit dwelling, will look for a party wall between units. Now, that information applies to newer buildings, built in the last few years. Many older duplexes and condos had no such fire protection.

The party wall is viewed from the attic, assuming there is access to do so. The party wall acts as a firewall by blocking the area, at each unit, from above the ceiling up to the roof. So, in a duplex, there would be one wall down the center and there would be two such walls at a triplex. That way, if a fire starts in one unit, while it might travel, it is slowed down by the wall.

You might be thinking that wood is flammable. True, but the design blocks the area off so roof ventilation from the other units does not "draw" the fire. Think about it, roof ventilation, to a fire, is like a chimney. As stated before, this applies to newer homes. In older buildings, access to one attic hatch often lets a person into the attic above every single unit in the complex – no party or firewalls. In fact, if there is more than one attic hatch, that can be a security issue and might allow someone who gains attic access to enter other people’s spaces. Movies, with various villains or cat burglars, have made the most of that potential security breach over the years.

This article was produced by the writing team of Eric Badgley & Angee Gardner; specializing in Whatcom County Real Estate and Bellingham Estate. http://www.bellingham-realestate.net

Source: http://www.articletrader.com

A Buyers Agent Can Save You Time And Money

Tue, 22 Jul 2008 00:00:00 -0500

You search and search, viewing dozens of properties online, you call on ads from the newspaper and real estate magazines, yet you still haven’t found the right home. What are you missing?

A buyer’s agent!! Why use a buyer’s agent? A buyer’s agent works primarily with buyers; they know the market, the homes in the market and how to find the right home for their clients.

Perhaps there is something you haven’t thought of or overlooked during your search; often times a buyer’s agent may be able to spot patterns or needs that you have not considered, and then place you in a home that you would never have thought to look at.
Buyer’s agent’s work with sellers from all aspects of the market including investors, builders, for sale by owners, and owners looking to sell on an owner contract or lease option. They have areas of locating homes that most buyers do not.

An experienced buyer’s agent knows how to read their clients and how to narrow a home search to work for their buyer, thus cutting the search anywhere from 1/3 to ½ the time. Your time is valuable so let an agent do the searching and hard work for you, after all most buyer’s agents services are free of charge to the buyer.

What else do you get with a buyers agent? In one word, representation! Why go it alone when you can have an experienced professional on your side working on your behalf? Your buyer’s agent will handle the purchase and sales agreement documentation and paperwork, inspection documents, appraisal documents, work with your lender to secure an easy closing and most of all make sure you are informed about the home, market and neighborhood.

Give your buyer’s agent a call today…

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This article was produced by the writing team of Eric Badgley & Angee Gardner; specializing in Whatcom County Real Estate and Bellingham Washington Real Estate.http://www.bellingham-realestate.net

Source: http://www.articletrader.com

When the Appearance Can Make the Sale

Tue, 22 Jul 2008 00:00:00 -0500

In today’s declining market, the importance of home appeal is becoming more and more apparent. So what can you do to make your home more appealing to buyers?

First and foremost get rid of clutter. Box up anything you don’t use on a daily basis, store them in the garage or rent a storage unit. The cost of a small storage unit may be more beneficial than loosing a buyer. What should you get rid of? As the saying goes, “less is more.” A buyer wants to imagine themselves and their stuff in your home so allow them as much of a blank canvas as you can. Don’t forget the closets, buyers will be looking at closet space and if yours is too full or cluttered they won’t be able to see the full picture.

Next to consider, remove all personal items such as family photos, personal collections and children’s school projects. There is nothing wrong with your personal effects, it’s just that a buyer only cares about what their photos will look like in your home, not yours. Simple neutral items will allow the buyer to see the home itself, not your stuff.

Do you love color? Are your walls a reflection of your bright and vibrant personality? When living in a home color is great, when selling a home neutrals are the best way to go. Paint all walls an off-white or light beige, this will allow the buyer to get their own ideas about wall color.

When showings are taking place, open all window shades, curtains and let in as much light as possible. Clean all windows and screens, turn on lights in darker rooms such as bathrooms and laundry rooms, make sure beds are made and daily clutter is picked up. Pay the most attention to bathrooms and kitchens, these are usually the first rooms a buyer will look at, and they will spend the most time in these rooms. Make sure the front of the home has curb appeal, clear up children’s yard toys, pools and pet toys. NEVER leave out lawn mowers, rakes or garden tools—you do not want a buyer to think of work (even if it is small work like removing weeds), the buyer should see your home as a place to live and relax.

Now that you have a list to get yourself started, let’s get your home sold!!

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This article was produced by the writing team of Eric Badgley with; specializing in Sudden Valley Real Estate and Bellingham Condos.http://www.bellingham-realestate.net

Source: http://www.articletrader.com

Lead Based Paint What a Buyer Should Know

Sun, 16 Mar 2008 00:00:00 -0500

Anytime a person buys an older home, it is only logical to assume that some lead-based paint is on the premises. Typically, this is not much of a concern unless the paint is flaking off or if a major renovation is planned.

If purchasing a home built before 1982, a buyer might expect it to contain some lead in the paint that was used over the years. The manufacture of lead-based paint was discontinued in 1978; however existing product was used in homes through 1982, when supplies were depleted. The general guideline is to expect at least a strong probability of lead-based paints in older homes. This information applies to exterior and interior painted surfaces. Inside the home, lead-based paint was more common for trim than on the walls.

Lead-based paint is not considered to be a problem as long as the substance does not become airborne or easy to access (no flaking off -- so a child could ingest pieces). Maintaining all siding, exterior trim, interior trim, walls and woodwork in a well-painted and covered state minimizes possible exposure to lead. If a buyer has a special concern about lead based paints, easy and affordable lab tests are available to positively identify these products. When renovating or remodeling, a number of safety precautions should be followed if lead-based paint is present. An online search for “lead-based paint” will quickly provide the consumer with a full range of safety tips as compiled by numerous government agencies and other industry professionals.

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This article was produced by the writing team of Eric Badgley & Angee Gardner; specializing in Semiahmoo Real Estate and Bellingham Washington Real Estate, along with Bellingham Home Inspectors. Making sure buyers are protected.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com

Underground Fuel Tanks What Buyers Should Know

Sun, 16 Mar 2008 00:00:00 -0500

When it is disclosed, or discovered, that an old underground fuel tank exists on a lot, that can create a number of problems at closing. The information below is current and provides insight into how to best deal with this possibility so complications, and delays at closing, can be avoided.

In the USA, requirements have, in recent years, become stringent regarding the need for removal of old underground storage tanks. Even a few years ago, people would decommission tanks by draining the fuel (gas or oil) and filling the tank with a concrete slurry. Recently, a government official told me that, today, any tanks discovered must be removed. That does not apply to tanks that were grandfathered in and were legally decommissioned under the old guidelines and the official did cite a possible exception to the current rule. He said that, if removing the tank would damage the home or something of real significance, like a valuable tree or an attached historical structure, then an exception might be allowed. Special permits would be required to exercise this exception to the rule.

As a realtor, periodically, this concern with tanks comes up as many banks won’t close on a loan until any known underground storage tank is removed. Why? The issue is not the tank but possible pollution from the contents. If pollution has leached out from the tank, cleanup costs can be very expensive. I know of one such cleanup in my area, where the costs ran in excess of $50,000. That was more than one fourth of what the low end home was worth.

In just about every community there are licensed fuel tank excavation and remediation companies that can come in and locate, and evaluate and remove, any underground tanks. If you are a realtor, listing an older home, you might want to take a look around the house and the lot. Look outside, near the foundation, for any old metal vent pipes or fill tubes. In a basement or crawl space, look for small diameter copper tubing (it may be disconnected and rolled up) that comes through the wall -- usually a foot or so under the level of the soil outside. If you see such materials, you can anticipate and circumvent problems by having a professional locate and deal with any old underground fuel tanks prior to putting the home on the market. If you are suspicious that any such tank might be present, have the situation checked out. The cost, to have someone qualified look for old underground fuel tanks, is minimal. Now, if a tank is found, it costs something to have it removed. But, at the least, you will have resolved an ugly problem that was bound to come up anyway and at a much more inconvenient time.

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This article was produced by the writing team of Eric Badgley & Angee Gardner; specializing in Bellingham Condos and Bellingham Real Estate, along with Bellingham Home Inspectors. Making sure buyers are protected.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com

The Facts About Septic Tank Inspections

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 00:00:00 -0500

There are a number of reasons why the standard home inspection does not include a detailed inspection of septic systems. The article below gives insight into some of the problems a home inspector would run into if he or she attempted to inspect septic systems.

Often homebuyers, clients of home inspectors, wonder why a standard home inspection does not include a full inspection of the septic system. As a realtor, who has studied this issue, I can answer that question for you. The truth is that the home inspector is not equipped to do a septic inspection. This job needs to be done by specialists with equipment designed for working on septic systems. Below I have listed a few of the problems that take the septic inspection out of the realm of the standard home inspection.

First, the tank is usually buried in the earth, so no view of the system is available. The specialists who pump septic tanks require specific training and are equipped to inspect the tank once it is EMPTY. Obviously, they also have the equipment for pumping the tank.

A home inspector is not set-up to locate, excavate the soil covering the lid, measure the scum mat or sludge depth, or pump the tank -- which is required to do an internal inspection.

A home inspector is not prepared to dig up the distribution box, determine the groundwater level or research the system's installation and service history.

A home inspector is not equipped to safely deal with the biological processes taking place and the odors being created, once the cover on the tank is removed. The health issues are not to be taken lightly as the septic tank inspection is potentially dangerous, and certainly unhealthy and very unpleasant, unless one has the proper protective gear.

A home inspector, who is looking at hundreds of issues at each home, does not have the time to also run hundreds of gallons of water and run dye tests, a complete process often done by specialists as they look for signs of leaks in the system or around the tank.

It is noted that, the home inspector WILL, as is possible, assess the plumbing in the home, including checking for adequate water flow and functionality. Also, he or she will check the drainage at sinks, tubs and toilets. Toilet tanks, or faucets, that run constantly and will not shutoff are pointed out as deficiencies that can lead to overloading the septic system.

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This article was produced by the writing team of Eric Badgley & Angee Gardner; specializing in Lake Whatcom Real Estate and Bellingham Real Estate, along with Bellingham Home Inspector. Making sure buyers are protected.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com

Private Wells What a Buyer Should Know

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 00:00:00 -0500

Buyers, purchasing a home with a well for the first time, often know nothing about the biology or mechanics of a well. The brief article below will provide some simple but essential information.

For the record, a private well is a specialized and complex system, mechanically and biologically, that is beyond the scope of a standard home inspection. Many mechanical parts of the system are not visible and the biological aspects of the system require laboratory testing. Regardless, if you are buying a home that has a well, a few basic facts, will be helpful to you.

The well flow rate is important. It is measured in gallons per minute, or GPM, and can be easily determined but it is much more difficult to determine exactly the water capacity of the well. There are costly and specialized tests for this, such as calculating the capacity by a "well draw-down" which consists of drawing water out of the well at a given rate, while monitoring the level of water remaining, or being replenished. This test is often considered to be extreme as it wastes water and stresses the well and maybe the home's septic system. Therefore, when evaluating a well, it is common and logical to instead rely heavily on a review of the past performance history of the well. An honest homeowner or renter, who has lived at the property, can provide a buyer with detailed and important information. Also, be advised that, when a well is part of a home sale, it is wise – and often the law – to have the well water tested for bacteria, or pollutants or harmful chemicals, by a qualified lab.

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This article was produced by the writing team of Eric Badgley & Angee Gardner; specializing in Birch Bay Real Estate and Bellingham Wa Real Estate, along with Bellingham Home Inspector. Making sure buyers are protected.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com

Getting Ready For the Home Inspection

Mon, 10 Mar 2008 00:00:00 -0500

A home inspection can have a major impact on whether a real estate deal is completed or not. Therefore, it is in the best interest of realtors to understand the inspection process and to do what they can to make sure the inspection goes smoothly.

There are advantages to being an experienced realtor. Often new realtors, early in their careers, are very nervous about an upcoming home inspection. They are afraid that the home inspection might kill, or delay closing of the anticipated sale. I always advise these individuals that instead of being overly worried, they should try to take positive steps that will assure that the home inspection goes as smoothly as possible. My advice in this regard applies equally to the buyer’s agent or the seller’s agent and it is summarized in the convenient seven-point list (designed while working with a professional home inspector) that is provided below.

Crawl space access: Find out where the opening is located, sometimes it can be hard to find. Make sure it is easily accessible at the time of the inspection and that it can be located by the home inspector.
Attic access: Find out where the hatch is located -- in the attached garage, in a bedroom, etc. Make sure it is accessible. If a shelf or similar obstacle is built under it and an inspector cannot access it, then that obstacle should be removed.

Electric panels: Find the location of all panels, including any distribution/sub-panels in garages or basements. Sometimes they are hidden behind pictures or cabinets are built over them. Make sure all panels can be safely accessed from the front so the inspector can remove the covers.
Water heater: Find out where it is located. Sometimes they are in tiny spaces -- behind refrigerators, in attics, etc. Make sure the tank is accessible.

Furnace: Find out where it is located. Usually the furnace is readily accessible but it can be located in crawl spaces or cluttered attics. The inspector must be able to remove the access doors and view components in the housing.

Sinks: If cupboards or vanities that under sinks in bathrooms and kitchens are reasonably clear of supplies and belongings, the inspector can view these areas without having to move personal hygiene items.
Gas, electricity, and water: If the buyer expects a full inspection of gas or electric appliances and the plumbing system, the gas, electricity and water must be functional.

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This article was produced by the writing team of Eric Badgley & Angee Gardner; specializing in Lynden Real Estate and Bellingham Wa Real Estate, along with Bellingham Home Inspector. Making sure buyers are protected.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com

Essential Mobile and Manufactured Home Jargon

Mon, 10 Mar 2008 00:00:00 -0500

Mobile and manufactured homes, being different than stick-built homes, have some of their own unique components and systems. Many of the terms are unfamiliar to the uninitiated. The article below will de-mystify some of the language associated with these homes.

If you are a real estate professional, and list or sell mobile or manufactured homes, there are a few terms that you should know that are not familiar to the average consumer. For example, usually nobody can see much underneath these units because they have built in vapor barriers. These are under the floor and go by various names: bottom board, road barrier, rodent barrier. The bottom board obscures much of the plumbing, electrical and structure. However, if it is all cut up around toilets and sinks that might provide a clue that there have been problems with the plumbing.

Another word that is used with manufactured homes is “ribbons”. Some manufactured homes merely rest on soil held up by concrete blocks that might be sinking into the earth. The better installations have ribbons or even full concrete slabs. Ribbons are strips of poured concrete that support the piers. The narrower ribbons, or a slab, are a great improvement over blocks that are resting on bare earth.

“Tie-downs” are metal straps that hold the home to the foundation/ground. These are primarily for wind, tornado, and hurricane protection in some states. In Washington State the concern is flooding and that, during a major flood, the units might float away. In most parts of the country that have building codes, newer installations have ribbons or slabs and tie-downs. However, make no mistake about it, there are still many mobile and manufactured homes out there that are not compliant with the new standards. They are not on sound footings and likely do not have tie-downs either.

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This article was produced by the writing team of Eric Badgley & Angee Gardner; specializing in Ferndale Real Estate and Bellingham Real Estate, along with Bellingham Home Inspections. Making sure buyers are protected.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com