http://www.articletrader.com/ Articles at ArticleTrader en-us http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/classic-paris-book-hunting-along-the-banks-of-the-river-seine.html http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/classic-paris-book-hunting-along-the-banks-of-the-river-seine.html Fri, 29 Jun 2007 00:00:00 -0500
Stretching out for over a mile in the center of Paris with the Cathedral of Notre Dame as a backdrop, and with the famous narrow streets and restaurants of the Quartier Latin a stone’s throw away, this has to rank amongst the top of any list of classic Parisian experiences.

Relics of a Bygone Age

To me, nothing embodies Paris’s essence more than the Seine’s bouquinistes, who have been “part of the furniture” for hundreds of years now. They are completely unique to Paris: I know of no other city in the world which can boast such an array of book traders.

The first bouquinistes appeared as early as the mid-16th Century, when they would trade their goods from carts, more often than not surreptitiously, as they would sell illegal Protestant pamphlets during the Crusades.

It was after the French Revolution, however, that the bouquinistes of the Seine really began to prosper: they had access to entire libraries confiscated from the rich, although it was not until the end of the 19th Century that they were granted the right to permanently bolt their stall boxes on the stone wall of the river banks.

After 1952, the size of the boxes and even their color became officially regulated.

From Current Publications to Priceless Antiques

Today you’ll find the bouquinistes’ stalls stretching out for over a mile along both sides of the Seine around the Ile de la Cite, from the Pont Marie to the Quai du Louvre on the right, and from the Quai de la Tournelle to the Quai Malaquais on the left.

In this idyllic setting and with Notre Dame as the backdrop, you can dig up all sorts: antique prints and engravings, old issues of Paris Match (a major national news magazine), maps, old books, very old books, rare books, comic books, posters, postcards, souvenirs and other odds and ends.

The stalls themselves essentially consist of boxes bolted to the stone wall of the river bank, which are locked up at night. Although some of their goods nowadays are strictly for tourists, there are still plenty of rare and priceless items for the serious connoisseur.

You never know what you’ll come across whilst rifling through the bouquinistes’ collections, and if they don’t have what you want, some even say they’ll find it for you; it is their trade that keeps treasures in circulation that might otherwise perish.

There is even a well-know anecdote told in Alexander Wollcott’s While Rome Burns, recounting the time when novelist Anne Parrish found a copy of Jack Frost And Other Stories at a bouquiniste. It was her favorite childhood book back in her days at a Colorado Springs nursery, but she'd not managed to see a copy of it until then. The tale goes that, whenshe showed her finding to her husband, he opened it to find inscribed on the flyleaf, "Anne Parrish, 209 N. Weber Street, Colorado Springs".

Today the bouquinistes of the Seine number around 250, and their trade is well regulated: they must be open for business a minimum of four days a week no matter the weather or foot traffic, and no more than one box out of four is permitted to contain "souvenirs" - the rest must be literary material.

Interview with a bouquiniste

Some of the bouquinistes are chatty, others less so, but I always manage to land on one who likes chin-wagging as much as I do. I was lucky to strike up a conversation with 64-year old Allain Ferlich, a veteran of 30 years on the Quais.

Smoking a Dominican mini cigar and leafing through an old copy of La Gazette (the first weekly magazine ever printed in France, back in the 1600s) as if it was this week's Paris Match, he seems to know every other person walking past his stall. “There are no set hours,” he tells me, “and I'm not afraid of the heat or the cold. I love to read, I'm talkative and I'm curious. So this is perfect for me.”

Chez Ferlich, the definition of "old" seems a little different than at the average bookseller’s. I see him flip through a book printed in 1943 which doesn’t even make the cut. Most of his books are works of art in themselves: beautiful, gold-lettered, leather-bound volumes written by authors such as Gustave Flaubert and Emile Zola.

Sadly, Ferlich is on the point of retiring. Once he is gone, it will be up to the City to decide who gets his spot. "They have a waiting list of one or two hundred people waiting to do this," he tells me.

An Endangered Species?

Just like the Panda, bouquinistes are a race in threat of extinction. For one thing, the underground tour bus park under the Carousel, next to the Louvre, has reduced foot traffic along the Quais quite considerably.

Then there is the internet, the biggest bookstore with which none can compete, encroaching on their revenue. This has forced some of the booksellers to turn to the more remunerative sale of tourist souvenirs, miniatures and trinkets.

But for those with a passion for books and who value the hunt as well as the book’s “pedigree”, the bouquinistes will always be irreplaceable – so don’t forget to drop by and keep one of Paris’s oldest pieces of heritage alive (and free from tacky tourist trinkets).

--
Phil Chavanne goes on searching the streets of Paris to keep his readers up-to-date on the City's gems, best hotels, and smart little secrets. For the best of times there, read reviews about Paris hotels and dig into Phil's Paris travel guide for some great tips and advices about the French capital.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/gourmet-food-gems-in-paris-part-iii.html http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/gourmet-food-gems-in-paris-part-iii.html Sat, 21 Apr 2007 00:00:00 -0500
For the icing on the cake (no pun intended), I'll reveal to you in this third part two more Parisian gastronomic wonders, including a dessert: Berthillon's simply outstanding range of ice creams and sorbets on the charming St-Louis island.


Say Cheese!

Beside wine, what else are the French obsessed with? Cheese! The French passion for cheese and the proliferation of the stuff in their country is frankly unsurpassed. A famous quote from Charles de Gaulle goes, "How can you be expected to govern a country that has 246 kinds of cheese?"

The French are as serious about their cheese as they are about their wine, and so it comes as no surprise that, like wine, French cheese is protected by AOC laws (appellation d'origine contrôlée, name of a controlled origin). These laws allow only certain limited quantities of a particular cheese to be produced in order to prevent mass production ruining the subtle variations in French regional cheeses.

So, in search of the ultimate cheese repast, I asked my Parisian friends where the cheese crème de la crème (no pun intended) was to be found in France's capital. The answer was unanimous: "Androuet!"

And Androuet it was. I wandered over to their fromagerie (cheese shop) at 37, rue de Verneuil and was greeted with the most tantalizing displays of cheeses – you have to see it to believe it! The cheeses look a far sight different than what they laughingly call cheese in supermarkets – this is the real enchilada.

Family owned and run, Androuet was founded back in 1909 by the current owner's grandfather, and since then its people have been cultivating the art of the maître fromager affineur (cheese maturing master). The name is famous worldwide. Today, and to the great benefit of the Parisian population, the house of Androuet actually comprises 5 fine cheese shops in Paris alone and plans to open another one in the new Roissy airport! They even have a branch in Stockholm, Sweden's capital.

Androuet's cheeses hail from more than 200 different locations and are all exclusively made with raw milk. Each cheese is unique, cured and matured under the supervision of maîtres affineurs (masters in cheese ripening), and aged or prepared in curing cellars. You'll find Androuet's shops in all Parisian tourist guides, and I was told that their clientèle comes from all over the world – from the US to Japan.

Cheese is best accompanied with bread and wine, and Androuet specializes in the best. They provide a wide range of wines, from red Sancerre to Chateau Neuf du Pape, and work with two Parisian bakeries to supply you with some very decent bread to go with your cheese.

So you can get your cheese, your wine and your bread all in one fell swoop, as well as excellent advice on all three free of charge. The staff speaks English, and a variety of other languages, so communication shouldn't be much of a problem... failing that, animated gesticulations punctuated by the odd use of random foreign words have always worked wonders for me abroad...

For those who want to take some of this priceless loot back home, Androuet provides air-tight and vacuum-sealed packages.

For Americans, you can check the US Customs & Border Protection website for the latest on food importing rules at help.cbp.gov, or the US Department of Agriculture's website (usda.gov). At the moment, they confirm that cured cheeses (i.e. hard cheeses like parmesan and cheddar) are generally admissible if imported for personal use, although this is subject to change depending on disease outbreaks. Keep in mind that you should declare them. Ask for advice from Androuet's staff – they'll be in the know about this.

A buffet-size assortment goes from 35 to 70 euros, and they do themed gourmet gift baskets, boxes and chests too. They even cater for private or business cheese-themed buffets with the whole nine yards: fresh and dried fruit, Poilane or Poujauran breads (see below), wine, candles, floral decorations etc.

Androuet in Paris (normal working hours Tuesday to Saturday, and they all close at 7:30 pm):

37, rue de Verneuil - 75007 Paris
Metro: Rue du Bac, Solférino (line 12).

134, rue Mouffetard - 75005 Paris
Metro: Censier Daubenton (line 7).

1, rue Bois le Vent - 75016 Paris
Metro: La Muette (line 9), Passy (line 6).

17, rue des Belles-Feuilles - 75016 Paris
Metro: Victor Hugo (line 2), Trocadéro (lines 6, 9).

23, rue de la Terrasse - 75017 Paris
Metro: Villiers (lines 2, 3).


And Now for a Spot of Dessert...

I think it's safe to say that Berthillon sets the standard for ice cream and sorbet... Not only in Paris, but all of France – and quite possibly, the world.

Berthillon's typically Parisian ice cream parlor is located right in the middle of the Ile St-Louis, a small island on the Seine River which is itself a major tourist attraction. The St Louis Island is a charming little miniature Paris with quaint restaurants and hotels. In the early 20th century, its inhabitants fancied their specificity, and 'seceded' from France to become the 'Republic of the St Louis Island'. One of those French loopy ideas!

Most of the food stores, tea parlors, and restaurants on the St-Louis Island advertise that they stock Berthillon ice cream. Yet there's only one Berthillon tea parlor. The company is owned and operated by the Chauvin family, descendants of the eponymous Monsieur Berthillon who opened the first shop in 1954. The parlor is smart, wood-paneled inside and out, an elegant version of Friendly's in America.

Berthillon sells its ice cream in bulk and by the scoop from its parlor, but many other retailers in Paris sell their ice cream in cones and cups, and some grocers sell larger amounts.

Any guilt you may feel at indulging can be laid to rest because Berthillon's fame derives in part from its use of natural ingredients. Their sweets contain absolutely no chemical preservatives, sweeteners, or stabilizers. The ice cream is made with nothing else than milk, cream and eggs, and the flavorings are natural: cocoa, vanilla, fruit etc.

In terms of flavor, we go way beyond 'Chunky Monkey' and 'Fish Food'. Get ready for something altogether more refined and, in the final analysis, much more tantalizing for the old taste buds (which should be stimulated rather than assaulted). We're talking pear sorbet that tastes to me more of pear than an actual pear does; green apple; wild strawberry ("fraise des bois"); coffee; honey nougat; prune Armagnac... All to die for.

Keep in mind that the French don't scoff, they 'déguste' (savor with relish) – so if you're expecting large Ben & Jerry's portions like you get in the US, you'll be disillusioned. But then again, that may not be so bad as far as our waist-lines are concerned...

Unfortunately, Berthillon's excellence is no secret. There is always a long line of eager customers no matter when you go, and it's even worse during hot weather. Trust me though, the trip is worth it.

I do like their hours though – open from 10 am with a late 8 pm closing time, I know my evening cravings will be catered for – well, at least from Wednesday to Sunday, as sadly they are closed the rest of the week. Also, much to my chagrin, I found out the place is not opened for business during a large part of the summer holidays (a relatively common occurrence in France). Yet all is not lost since we can always get our Berthillon fix from the other ice cream shops and tea parlors on the Island!

For a taste of Bertillon's habit-forming, gourmet glories, get onto Ile Saint-Louis: walk down the left side of Notre Dame; at the back of the Cathedral, cross the bridge to your left onto Ile Saint-Louis; then, hang a right on Rue St-Louis en l'Ile, and go to number 31 on the right side of the street. Or go by Metro and get off at the Pont Marie station, and cross the bridge. When you get to the central street of the island, make a hard left, and the shop stands right there, on the opposite sidewalk.

--
Phil Chavanne has written numerous articles on Parisian best-kept-secrets. His free travel guide offers many tips and advices to help you experience the city to the fullest on your next trip to the French capital. Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News.com also gives you ways to save on booking a Paris hotel.


Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/gourmet-food-gems-in-paris-part-i.html http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/gourmet-food-gems-in-paris-part-i.html Wed, 21 Mar 2007 00:00:00 -0500

Go Organic Parisian Style

Paris is renowned for its local street food markets, which can be found in nearly every one if its quartiers (districts). The Rue Cler market is a very famous one, the Rue de Levis is another one almost as famous. The wonderful symbiosis of 'traditional and parochial' with the 'grand and capital' undoubtedly lends Paris its unique character.

Personally, Parisian street markets appeal to me because they offer a rare respite from the bland, cookie-cut supermarket retail experience and because, just like the proverbial box of chocolates in Forest Gump, 'you never know what you're gonna get'. Not only do I always seem to discover something I never even knew existed, but the quality and freshness of the produce is high and the whole experience in general is less clinical and more... well, fun.

Parisian open street markets usually operate off touristy alleys and are held either on a weekly or bi-weekly basis. The stalls get set up early in the morning, and the end-of-day sales begin in the early afternoon, although timing really does vary from one market to the other so I recommend doing your homework, and checking the schedules published by the city hall of the local district.

Of all of them, the organic Marché de Raspail is probably my favorite. It is held on Sunday mornings from 9:00 am to 1:30 pm on the center divider along Boulevard Raspail, between Rue de Rennes and Rue du Cherche Midi (stop off at the Sèvres Babylone metro station).

The Sunday Marché de Raspail caters only to organic ('biologique' or 'bio') food, and many of its products are just a cut above the rest. Indeed, French fresh produce are renowned, and I must say that every time I come back to Paris, I'm quite baffled to find that I actually forgot what a real cucumber tastes like...

The market's stalls number about 100 and are spread out over 200 yards, and they are run by anybody and everybody – from organic producers to various resellers, and some pretty interesting characters!

They sell just about anything that's organic. I walked away smugly with some very rustic lavender honey, loads of cheese and a delicious organic chicken that was roasted before my very eyes...

The service is usually very friendly. You will appreciate the way French vendors actually bother to ask when you actually plan to eat their produce. They can select it for you accordingly (i.e. so that it ripens neither too early, nor too late).

All in all, a healthy treasure trove, well worth getting up early for on a Sunday morning – even if only for an education in what fresh fruits and veggies are actually supposed to taste like...

The Raspail non-organic market runs on Tuesdays and Fridays, between 7:00 am and 2:30 pm.

Once again, the Marché Raspail can be found in the 6th quarter, on the corner of Boulevard Raspail and Rue de Rennes. Closest metro station: Sèvres Babylone.


Lafayette Gourmet – a Riot of Tastes and Colors

The Galeries Lafayette is one of the most distinguished and famous shopping landmarks in Paris. Their high-fashion displays and grand old-world architecture (including a very fine stained-glass dome) make any shopping there a remarkable experience. I have to admit though that I tend to spend most of my time loitering around its breathtaking Gourmet food court.

The food court is located on the top floor of the Galeries, and is a veritable riot of tastes and colors. There you'll find everything and more to tantalize the dedicated gourmet: a bakery with a dizzying array of specialty breads and pastries (testament to France's continuing love affair with baked goods of every description); a cheese counter with at least a hundred different varieties of cheese (both French and imported); meats and seafood; a deli offering the very best specialty foodstuffs; and fruit and veggies of every origin from all around the world — all products flawlessly fresh.

There is even a large section dedicated to every spice imaginable. The luxury chocolate and candy displays are worth a prolonged visit. I usually stock up here on all kinds of European chocolates when I'm in town as many brands can't be found in the US and all of them are sold cheaper in Paris.

To top things off, Lafayette Gourmet also boasts a 'wine library' unlike any other: 1,800 of the world's finest wines, classified and presented with enough loving attention to satisfy demanding wine connoisseurs.

40, boulevard Haussmann 75009 PARIS
Metro: Chaussée d'Antin La Fayette

--
Phil Chavanne is the Senior Editor of Paris Eiffel Tower News, a city guide offering scores of information and useful advices on Paris hotels, restaurants, shops, monuments and sights for free at Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/gourmet-food-gems-in-paris-part-ii.html http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/gourmet-food-gems-in-paris-part-ii.html Wed, 21 Mar 2007 00:00:00 -0500
In Part I, we revealed to you the Raspail organic food open street market and the Lafayette gourmet food court. Now, we offer you two more of those Parisian gourmet food gems.


Real French Bread

In France, almost anyone will tell you that Poilane bread is the pinnacle of Parisian baking. First established 75 years ago, Poilane is now run by Lionel Poilane, who took over the business from his father about 30 years ago and boomed it: the shop sells 15,000 loaves of bread each day, i.e. 2.5% of all bread sold in Paris, by weight.

The secret of Poilane bread is steeped in tradition. Lionel himself conducted an extensive research project on the 'ethnography', as he put it himself, of his craft. Poilane bread is made from wheat grown only on farms employing sustainable techniques with sea salt from the French Atlantic Coast. It's baked for over an hour in Poilane's specially designed wood-burning ovens, and will easily keep for a week in its original white and green paper bag.

Poilane bread traces its heritage back to the genuine regional French bread, but the business is remarkably modern. Today, the family manages a new shop in London and a 'manufacture' on the outskirts of Paris producing the goods that are sold in more than 2,500 restaurants and shops in Paris alone, and about 20 countries around the world. Poilane is one of the few 'global bakers' today, taking advantage of the Internet and the large FedEx hub near the Roissy-Charles-de-Gaulle airport to ship the bread worldwide. The goods land on dinner tables within 48 hours of their cooking.

The bread itself is decidedly old school: thick, chewy, and rich with a dark, fire-tinged flavor. Traditional French bread is not the ubiquitous white bread used in baguettes. It used to be a dark, wholesome stuff eaten by poor people when they could not afford anything else. It almost disappeared from French tables because of its very history. So much so that the old saying "He ate his white bread..." means that he mused and fooled around instead of working diligently, and now he's in for hard times (and only dark bread).

After World War II, the height of chic was white bread, imported from Austria. Poilane is very unique in that in a city where you can't walk two blocks without running into a baguette, he refuses to produce any!

Poilane's bread has won him famous fans over the years: Frank Sinatra and Lauren Bacall used to enjoy a loaf from time to time, and Robert De Niro is a customer.

There's one person in the shop who speaks English, who confirmed taking bread back to the US is no problem.

Poilane's famous bread can be found at 8, rue Cherche Midi, 75006 Paris. The closest metro station is Sevres-Babylone.


BE – Tasty and Classy

Boulangépicier, or 'BE' for short, is owned by two of Paris's most famed and respected chef and baker: Alain Ducasse and Eric Keyser, respectively.

BE's name and concept result of the fusion of 'boulanger' (baker) and 'épicier' (grocer). Its culinary creations are inspired by simple, traditional French recipes.

BE is housed in a smart, typically Parisian building located not too far from the Arc de Triomphe, and close to the Parc Monceau. This makes it an ideal spot for a take-away lunch near one of Paris's loveliest green expanse.

On sale is a carefully selected range of fine products and a tempting selection of sandwiches, homemade soups and fresh salads as well as pastries and desserts, whether to take away or eat in (there is a seating area that takes about ten).

On the grocery front, BE sells a range of gourmet goods (unusual spices, condiments, jams, chocolate, candy, pasta etc.), and a small selection of organic produce and dairy products.

On the bakery front, they sell Mr. Keyser's renowned breads, made on the premises, whether as a loaf to take home or in the mouth-watering array of ready-made sandwiches. I had never actually tasted Keyser bread, and was genuinely surprised to find that it was far superior to almost anything I tried from other Parisian bakeries, including the famous Paujauran bread.

The array of breads is carefully displayed; they are made from various combinations of high-quality ingredients and are all at once tasty, crusty, fresh and moist, a welcome break from the ubiquitous mass-produced chewy white bread.

I was particularly intrigued by their concept of 'Sandwich Brochettes', an assortment of mini-sandwiches on skewers. After much deliberation, I went for the 'Brochette Riviera', which was comprised of little buns of black olive bread filled with tapenade (olive paste) and slices of fresh goat cheese; tomato buns filled with tomato 'caviar' and basil turkey; and then basil buns filled with pesto and sun-dried tomatoes. Wise choice.

I washed down the lot with a bottle of Orezza, a sparking mineral water sourced from springs near Rappagio in Corsica. I'd never tasted it before, and had expected to find the more common French mineral water brands such as Chateldon and Badoit, but it was a pleasant surprise – Orezza has a fine flinty aftertaste and delicate levels of natural gas.

Naturally, this 'designer food' isn't the cheapest: sandwiches start at 5 euros, and my Brochette Riviera set me back 7.5 euros. But it was worth every cent.

Tuck into BE's tasty and classy food on the go or to take away at 73, boulevard de Courcelles, 75008 Paris

--
Phil Chavanne heads the editing team of Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News.com, an easy-going travel guide written for people who love the French capital, and wish to read on Paris hotels, museums, restaurants, hot spots, and streets.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/a-few-parisian-hot-spots.html http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/a-few-parisian-hot-spots.html Thu, 08 Feb 2007 00:00:00 -0600

Rue de Paradis – A crystal paradise?

Another thing that will strike you as you visit Rue de Paradis will be the number of shops offering world-renowned Limoges porcelain, plates, and dinner sets, as well as fine crystal products, from glasses and wine decanters to chandeliers.

Crystal is a type of glass which contains a small percentage of lead to lend it more clarity and sparkle than ordinary glass. Crystal is usually cut to enhance its reflective qualities, making it a very pretty, highly valued (and more costly) type of glassware.

Most shops on Paradis street sell "Cristal de Baccarat", an expensive and prestigious brand of crystal with a long and distinguished history dating back to the early 1800s, and known for supplying royalty with its production.

Those of you who don’t want to fork out a load of money, there is a shop at No. 52 named 'Décor et Cristal' which carries a different type of crystal. Their source is from a factory in Eastern France, the 'Cristallerie des Vosges du Nord'. Although not Baccarat crystal, theirs is still high-quality, and--I was told by the sales assistant--even dishwasher safe!

Prices are great too: some models of crystal glasses retail at 6 euros a piece instead of the usual 30 euros. Products are offered at 20 to 60% discounts.

Décor et Cristal is located at No. 52 rue de Paradis, 75010 Paris. Their phone number is: 33 (0)1 4824 5733.


Loose yourself at Le Grand Comptoir

If you find yourself in the 7th district, take some time to stop by 116 Rue du Bac and check out the Grand Comptoir (the Big Counter), a luminous and refined shopping place filled with a motley of weird and wonderful Parisian items.

The entrance courtyard is lined with a variety of cow pictures in tribute to "Vach'art", the French version of CowParade, a movement that started in Zurich in 1998 and now spans the entire globe (and for cow fans, you'll find some miniatures for sale inside).

The top level of the Grand Comptoir offers a full array of ready-to-wear clothes for men and women. Beauty products and foodstuffs are on the ground floor, along with many shops selling indoor and outdoor house accessories and a host of other things: old style photos albums with pictures of Paris, pillows with your own black and white photo printed on them, dinner sets, wine bottle boxes, lights, linens, art, etc. You can also shop for gorgeous rustic pieces of heavy wooden furniture and wrought-iron (and typically Parisian) benches. These items are of course unlikely to fit into your suitcase, but they are rather nice to look at anyways.

Prices are all over the place, but there's plenty of affordable stuff for bargain hunters.

Le Grand Comptoir is located at 116 rue du Bac, 75007 Paris, and can be accessed from the 'Sevres-Babylone' metro station. Their phone number is: 33 (0)1 4049 0095.


Parisian designer leather & fur - direct from the manufacturers!

I couldn’t believe my luck when, wandering through the Rue de Paradis on the lookout for yet more shopping bargains for the readers of paris-eiffel-tower-news.com, I spotted the workshop exhibition of Jekel. Since 1947, Jekel has been bringing French fashion know-how to designer leather and fur.

I know fur isn't the most popular item in the United States, and it is much less worn in Europe than in the 1920-50s. The art of designing fur coats and accessories is quickly disappearing, a less than a hundred craftsmen remain in activity in Paris. Finding fur clothing may soon be as difficult as finding a genuine Rembrandt in an attic.

I met with the owner of Jekel, Sylvain Jekel himself who explained that his workshop creates and sells exclusive designer leather models, and fur clothing and accessories.

Jekel distribute their goods internationally to ready-to-wear names and quality retailers such as Galeries Lafayette, Sonya Rykiel, Darel, Apostrophe, etc. The workshop is situated at No. 22 Rue de Paradis.

The ready-to-wear clothing available off the rack is not tailor-made, but Sabrina, the lovely assistant I met, confirmed that Jekel could adjust items on the spot for you (and indeed, she was busily adding a button for a customer as we were speaking).

Prices start at 300 euros, and they can even ship your purchases oversees so you don’t have to overload your suitcases.

Once again, the address of the Jekel workshop is 22 Rue de Paradis, 75010 Paris. Their phone number is 33 (O)1 4770 7390, and you can get there from the following stations: 'Gare de l'Est', 'Poissonniere', and 'Chateau d'Eau'.


Discover your very own Paris: don’t miss the next issue of paris-eiffel-tower-news.com newsletter by Phil Chavanne, Paris veteran and author. Each issue brings you tips on everything Paris, from great spots for a stroll to off-the-beaten-track attractions, to the best in real Parisian eateries.

--
Phil Chavanne shares with you a 30-year knowledge of Paris, France. Get scores of precious tips to ready yourself for your next trip at Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News, a free Paris guide offering great insider information.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/shop-till-you-drop-in-paris.html http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/shop-till-you-drop-in-paris.html Thu, 08 Feb 2007 00:00:00 -0600

Free concerts in an awesome setting!

Free music anyone? While in Paris you can attend free concerts twice a week at Saint-Merri Church in downtown rue Saint-Martin. This church dates back to 1550. Its architecture has been inspired by Notre-Dame's, and in fact it is known as 'Notre-Dame la petite' (the little Notre-Dame). It is chock-a-block with impressive stained-glass windows, frescos, bas-reliefs, sculptures, tapestries and paintings, not to mention its beautiful musical center-piece, an awesome organ with a long and distinguished history.

Concerts last around an hour and start on Saturdays at 9:00 pm and on Sundays at 4:00 pm. Although the musical genre is predominately classical, they do play jazz from time to time, and even rarer kinds of music: classical Indian, Chinese, Armenian, and medieval music. Donations are appreciated but entirely at your discretion.

On the first and third Sundays of every month the Church offers a guided visit of the building after the concert.

The Saint-Merri Church is situated at 78 rue Saint-Martin, 75004 Paris. The phone number is: 33 (0)1 4271 9393. The two closest metro stations are: Hotel de Ville (take exit Rue du Renard); and Chatelet (take exit Place Sainte Opportune).


Wine tasting at Galerie Vivienne

If you like your wine, you won’t want to miss this French 1950s-style period wine shop. With its wood paneling and charming window displays, it opens up onto the Galerie Vivienne, one of the most stunning indoor arcades in Paris. There lie the wine cellars of 'Legrand filles et fils' (Legrand daughters & sons), some of the most highly reputed in Paris.

These cellars have been lovingly and expertly stocked by three generations of the Legrand family ever since the end of the World War I. Sadly enough, these cellars are not open to the general public. The shop offers however a warm family atmosphere.

Wine prices range from 5 to 10,000 euros a bottle, with a wide selection in the 5-15 euros price bracket. You won’t go hungry either, as the shop also carries a range of delicacies to bring out the flavor of the wine.

Worthy of note, the shop offers wine tasting and lessons! For 60 euros you can attend an introductory wine tasting session every Monday from 8 to 10 pm. Seating is limited, so book beforehand by phone or by e-mail.

The shop also features a wine tasting corner, open from 12:00 noon to 6:00 pm, where you can choose a wine and get a plate of accompanying delicacies specially selected to bring out the taste of your wine. The cost is 5.25 euros a glass and 15-30 euros a plate. You can also order desserts.

The shop has two entrances: No. 1 Rue de la Banque, and No. 12 Galerie Vivienne, 75002 Paris. For wine tasting reservations, call: 33 (0)1 4260 0712 or email: info[at]caves-legrand.com.


Monastica – craftsmanship steeped in tradition

This is a fantastic place where you can get your hands on authentic French handmade products, crafts and souvenirs steeped in tradition –- and do a good deed at the same time. If you wander at the tip of the St Louis Island, you'll discover on Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe a boutique called Monastica, owned and run by the nuns of "Les Fraternités de Jérusalem" (The Brotherhoods of Jerusalem), a religious order originally founded in 1975 at the Church Saint Gervais in Paris, which has now spread out internationally.

Most products sold by the shop are made by the Order, the rest by lay craftsmen, but all profits go to the Order. Their products are typically French: stoneware crockery, jams, biscuits, chocolate, marzipan, Provence honey, perfumes, hygiene and beauty products, fine Catalan house linen, statues, decorations, etc. Their Catalan linen is particularly valued, and they have an incredibly wide array of soaps.

You can lay your hands on country jams for around € 5, essential oils from € 4 to € 8, post cards for € 0.80, soaps for € 2.75. Prices are very moderate.

Should you want to buy gifts, your purchases can be beautifully gift-wrapped. The nuns speak English too.

Once again, the address is 11, rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 75004 Paris. You can reach them at: 33 (0)1 4887 8513 and 33 (0)8 7455 6685.


Don't miss my next issue of Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News newsletter, with yet more discoveries of hot spots, shopping gems and the best in authentic Parisian eateries.

--
After many years spent in Paris, Phil Chavanne knows the city in and out and gives English-speaking travelers scores of advices and information bits on how best to visit the French capital at Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/serendipitous-paris-a-random-assortment-of-things-to-do-act-i-scene-i.html http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/serendipitous-paris-a-random-assortment-of-things-to-do-act-i-scene-i.html Sat, 06 Jan 2007 00:00:00 -0600
In this new series of articles, I will bring to your attention an assortment of such things which you are free to try out then and there. You can also find more data on my Paris guide Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News.com


Like Church Music?

Every Sunday and on non-worked days, the imposing Saint Roch Church hosts organ concerts from 5:30 to 6:00 PM. There is no entry fee, and the thrill is guaranteed for a good 30 minutes. This venue is known for this event, so show up well before 5:30 PM. The Church is located at 2 impasse Saint Eustache, between the “Châtelet-Les Halles” metro station and the Louvre Museum.


Free Couscous for All

The “La Cordonnerie” restaurant offers a nice, free couscous to its patrons every Saturday night at 9:00 pm. A simple principle: order a drink (less than 5 euros), and you get the couscous. At that price, it’s a steal. People know it, they flock to the place, and there is very little room available. The restaurant is located at 142 rue Saint Denis, near the “Etienne Marcel” subway station.


Bagdad Cafe in Paris

There is the arch-famous Bagdad Cafe on Route 66 (I ate there twice, yes!), and there is the much less famous but very lively Bagdad Cafe in Paris. On Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays at 9:00 pm the place is taken over by fans of gipsy jazz players (Django Reinhardt style) and French pop singers. Live music and drinks at reasonable prices, what better way to kill an evening? The address is 22 rue au Maire, in the 3rd district, near the “Arts et Metiers” metro station.


A Park Way Too Often Overlooked

Standing in the middle of the forgotten, off-centered 19th district, the Buttes-Chaumont park rolls out its majectic hills and narrow alleys over thousands of acres. Way too often overlooked by tourists and Parisians alike, the park is a haven of silence and peace. Joggers, strollers, families and lovebirds meet at this unique venue which is dominated by a rocky mound on top of which stands a small gazebo which resembles a Greek temple. An awesome place to spend a Sunday morning. The nearest metro stations are “Laumiere” and “Buttes-Chaumont”.


Antique Asia in Paris

The Cernuschi Museum shelters over 12,000 ancient objects of Chinese, Korean and Japanese origins, of which 900 are on permanent display in the beautiful 19th century mansion: from neolithic potteries, to statues and weapons of the 13th century. There is only one other museum in France which can compete with such a wealth of antique Asian art. This museum is worth its weight in gold! To visit it, go to 7 avenue Velasquez, near the “Villiers” metro station. Don’t go on Mondays, the mansion is closed.

Ah! The joys of visiting Paris in an unconventional way! You can imagine that a city which is 2,000 years old and has 1,000+ years of recorded history offers a lot more than can ever be summarized in writing. Facing such an abundance of things to see, which way should one go? My take (and that of my old pal Vincent Ramelli, who was born in Paris and is a die-hard Parisian) is that Paris is better discovered outside the path traced by the millions of visitors. Not to say that the Louvre Museum must not be part of your itinerary, not at all! But I just happen to think that if you include a detour to a less-well-known place such as those recommended in our Paris travel guide Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News.com, your stay in the French capital will become all the more interesting. You will have more local-color anecdotes to tell your friends. And your trip will be even more memorable. SO yes, I recommend that you try out new spots and venues, and I will continue suggesting those in further articles. Cheers!

--
About the Author:

As a noted Paris specialist, Phil Chavanne has given many travelers advices and tips which made a big difference for their stay in Paris. Get the information you need to prepare your next trip to the French capital now.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/a-melting-pot-of-ideas-to-try-out-in-paris-act-i-scene-ii.html http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/a-melting-pot-of-ideas-to-try-out-in-paris-act-i-scene-ii.html Sat, 30 Dec 2006 00:00:00 -0600
Here is another article in this series.


Organ Music Anyone?

Notre Dame Cathedral is not just an awesome medieval work of art. Every Sunday at 4:30 PM the official organ player of the Cathedral sits at his keyboard, and fills the enormous structure with sounds from outer space. Anyone who attended these concerts will tell you that religious music takes a whole new meaning in this sanctified place. Goosebumps guaranteed. Notre Dame Cathedral is located on the Cite Island, at the Cite metro station. There is more about it on my Paris guide paris-eiffel-tower-news.com.


Get Me a Couscous for Free

At the “Les Fontaines” bar, the owner opens his kitchen and serves free couscous to all on Fridays and Saturdays. You are only required to order one drink per person, which is anyway desirable when you stuff yourself with semolina. “Les Fontaines” sits at 153 rue Saint-Maur, in the 11th district. The closest metro stations are “Belleville” and “Rue Saint-Maur”.


British and Celt Rock in Paris

In 30 years from now, people will talk about the Guinness Rock Tavern as this mythic British bar where to listen to live rock music while downing a Guinness Stout. A new band every night will entertain you from 10:00 pm to 5:00 am. I am still so thankful I didn’t live right above the place! Take the subway to the “Chatelet” station, and walk northwards to 31 bis rue des Lombards. That’s the place where it’s loud.


The Green Miles

That’s something so peculiar you won’t want to miss it. On top of the remnants of what used to be an inner railroad line, the City authorities have developed a 3-mile walkway which links the Bastille square to the Vincennes Woods, along the Daumesnil Avenue. Halfway between Bastille and Vincennes, the Reuilly Gardens offer a nice halt. There is no such walkway in any city I have ever visited. Access it from the “Bastille” subway station. You can see a few views of it at paris-eiffel-tower-news.com


Where Queen Marie-Antoinette Spent her Last Night

Queen Marie-Antoinette was beheaded during the French revolution in 1793. It is said her hair turned entirely white during the night before her execution. She was held captive at the Conciergerie Museum, a royal palace built on the Cite Island in the early 13th century. The medieval atmosphere penetrates your very soul along a visit which will lead you through the castle and its infamous cells. Free admission, and you keep your head on your shoulders. The address is 2 boulevard du Palais, on the Cite Island. The nearest metro station is “Cite”.

--
Phil Chavanne is the Senior Editor of Paris Eiffel Tower News, a city guide offering scores of information and useful advices for free at Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/bringing-back-gifts-from-paris.html http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/bringing-back-gifts-from-paris.html Sat, 09 Dec 2006 00:00:00 -0600
Ah, the joys of preparing for the occasion...

The pleasure of diving into your favorite travel guides (I suggest visiting website Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News.com) to plan out your everyday itinerary... The sheer excitement of stuffing a large suitcase with the entire appropriate garb...

But hold on! Have you thought of leaving enough room in your luggage to bring a few gifts back home?

Bringing back cool gifts. A major important task on your To-Do-When-I'm-There list. Yes, yes, yes. But where will you find nicely original (and attractively inexpensive) stuff?

Well, search no more, I did it for you.


First Gift Opportunity: a Designer Depot

In a previous article I wrote about "designer depots": small boutiques where it is possible to find vintage or last-season designer garb at very low prices. I like these shops; they are treasures troves where finding a deeply-discounted Chanel suit or Yves Saint Laurent dress is always within the realm of possibilities.

"Chercheminippes" is one of them. The name of the shop is a play on words: it means "searching for clothes" and is a reminder of the street name "Cherche-Midi" (or "searching for noon" in French) where the shop is located.

"Chercheminippes" is not just one shop, but a string of five shops lining the Cherche-Midi Street in the plush 6th district (near the "Sevres-Babylone" metro station, and at walking distance from Saint Germain des Pres). Each shop offers a specific category of items: women's wear, designer clothes, men's fashion, child wear, and home decoration.

Every piece of clothing is second-hand but in excellent condition. The owner, Mrs. Bayonne, only buys well-known brands, including French designer brands. She discounts her merchandise by 50% on average.

"Chercheminippes" also offers linen, pens, relatively inexpensive designer jewelry, and various fashion accessories. Unlike traditional designer depot owners, Mrs. Bayonne's also shops for decorative objects, both contemporary and vintage. There lies more gift potential for you!

Swing by Rue du Cherche-Midi, you will find the five shops tucked between No. 102 and No. 124.


Second Stop on Gift Road

Situated on the ground floor of a private mansion at 9 Place Furstenberg, one of my very favorite places in Paris, "Nolita" carries an unusual assortment of things in a very feminine 'boudoir' universe. That prices range from 10 euros to 3,000 euros is an indication of the wide diversity of items on offer. Let's just say "Nolita" deals in everything that is interior design.

For the shopper looking for singular gifts, the shop presents a vast array of possibilities: linen, tableware, glassware, quaint decorative objects, and even vintage repainted furniture. "Nolita" also carries toiletries, including several lines of soaps. If you are looking for clothing items, the shop may have something for you too.

The owner, Mrs. Lassalle, sources her merchandise from France, Italy and England. Choice and diversity are keywords here, and I think it is unlikely you will leave the shop without a couple of gifts in your shopping bag. I heard "Nolita" is a shopping spot for many American and Japanese travelers.

Place Furstenberg hides between Saint-Germain-des-Pres and the river Seine. You owe it to yourself to discover this quaint area. The closest subway station is Saint-Germain-des-Pres.


The Red Cedar of the Prince Gardener

"Le Cedre Rouge du Prince Jardinier" carries both indoor and outdoor objects. Located at 22 Avenue Victoria, in the very central first district ("Chatelet" subway station), the shop is a cross between the Outpost, Home Depot, Hold Everything, and Williams-Sonoma mail-order catalogues.

There you will find unwieldy by beautiful outdoor furniture made by local craftsmen (tables, lounge chairs and chairs in teak, marble, travertine, and volcanic stone), as well as garden decoration items and tooling (how about a nice red gardener apron and hat? Or a large hemp-fiber bag to carry your groceries in rugged style?).

Fortunately for travelers, "The Red Cedar of the Prince Gardener" also offers more portable indoor objects, including Christmas decorations, a large assortment of perfumed candles and candle-holders, oil lamps, curious plaids and pillows, extraordinary Venetian and vintage glassware, numerous tableware and silverware sets, vases of various shapes and forms, and many other wares of sorts. Even a series of not-seen-elsewhere umbrellas.

I don't think there is any like shop in Paris. Very unusual, kind of out-of-place, but so interesting it is absolutely worth a visit. And if you fall for a lounge chair or a large fireplace screen, they will ship it to your home. Ask for Patrice, he's a most helpful fellow.

Well, these are but a few useful boutiques to visit should you plan on bringing something out of the ordinary from Paris for a friend or a relative. I will continue to shop for more of these places, and let you know whenever I find some I like.

Meanwhile, prepare well for your next trip to Paris!

--
With thirty years of on-the-ground experience Phil Chavanne has helped many travelers to make the best of their stay in Paris. Find many of the answers you need to prepare your next trip at Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News.com, a free information guide about Paris hotels, restaurants, monuments, shops and sightseeing opportunities.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]> http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/three-spots-where-to-take-time-off-in-paris.html http://www.articletrader.com/travel/destinations/three-spots-where-to-take-time-off-in-paris.html Sat, 04 Nov 2006 00:00:00 -0600

The China House

In America when we think of a social venue where to spend a couple of hours reading and sipping on some hot beverage, the local Starbucks shop comes to mind almost immediately. Starbucks is slowly building a beach head in Europe where Italian coffee dominates the espresso market, leaving very little room for the kind of brew Starbucks sells.

In other words, Starbucks shops do not abound in Paris. But there are many other venues of the sort, and sometimes much better ones. The China House (La Maison de la Chine) belongs to this latter category.

Standing at 76 rue Bonaparte, in the Saint Germain des Pres area, La Maison de la Chine offers tea lovers a perfect haven to taste various teas and nibble at a couple of 'macarons' (small cookies with a light cream spread within) and other pastries. The 'tea house' is open from 3:00 to 7:00 pm Monday to Saturday. Tasting sessions give you an opportunity to sip on some of the finest Chinese teas: Tieguanyin, Longjing, Yinzhen, and Shuixian. The tea is prepared along the lines of an ancient tradition with special bamboo utensils, clay teapot and water pot, a 'cup for smelling' and a 'cup for sipping'.

Should you also wish to have lunch there, their Shanghaï Cafe opens between 12:30 and 2:30 pm. Their courses are a mix between Chinese and Thai food, with some interesting flavors. The food doesn't come cheap (there are two options, one for €22, the other for €28) but quality is good.


The Luxembourg Gardens

Definitely one of my favorite areas in my teenage years. The Luxembourg Gardens are the Parisian version of London's Hyde Park and NYC's Central Park. It extends across a large section of the city, spreading over parts of several districts. The French Senate House was built along one of its sides.

Monikered 'le Luco' by the youth of the 6th district (a well-to-do crowd with its own social codes and exclusive parties), the Luxembourg Gardens are informally divided into sections.

In one of these, children can ride an old wooden-horse merry-go-round, and catch metal rings with short wooden sticks. Further away, there are a few tennis courts, and a puppet theater. The vast expanse of land facing the French Senate House features a water basin where youngsters float model sailboats.

One of the quietest spots of the Gardens borders the Rue d'Assas. It is shaded by old trees around which narrow alleys wrap up. Metal chairs line up the alleys, and it may become hard to find one unoccupied during summer as students love to hang around and study in this area. A perfect place for a quiet afternoon of reading or romantic strolling.


Meet Louis the 13th at Place des Vosges

Ensconced by four rows of 17th century mansions, Place des Vosges is probably best known for its art galleries. Those exhibit artworks of a more modern breed that the galleries which line up the famed Rue de Seine, near Saint-Germain-des-Pres.

To me however, Place de Vosges is mainly remarkable for its peaceful, miniature park. The 39 mansions around the Place shelter it from the traffic rumble coming from the Rue Saint Antoine (Southern side) and the Boulevard Beaumarchais (Eastern side). This sort of a rampart also serves as a wind-cutter during fall and springtime.

Mid-sized trees line up the fence around the symmetrically built park. At its center, a tree-circle in which stands a bronze statue of Louis the 13th who, we learn, died at age 33. Around the central circle, my target: one of four green lawns where I can unfold a spread, lay down, and read.

During summer, there are always a couple of classical and jazz formations playing under the nearby arcades. They play at a pretty good level which gives a nice touch to the local vibe.

Among the restaurants around the Place, I personally like 'Ma Bourgogne' at No. 19. They serve hearty meals for €25-35.


But that's just a few spots

There is no shortage of quiet spots where to kill a couple of delicious hours in Paris. In fact I'll write about some more in the coming weeks. When you are in Paris, take some time off to enjoy the city vibe differently; don't just roll with the Parisian hustle-bustle. I'll see you in a while with more food for thought.

--
After many years spent in Paris, Phil Chavanne knows the city in and out and gives English-speaking travelers scores of advices and information bits on Paris, and how best to visit the French capital at Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News.

Source: http://www.articletrader.com ]]>