Cowboy Boots: The Art of Stitching

There are a lot of differences between factory-made cowboy boots found at most western wear stores and the boots that are custom-made. One of these differences, and a significant one at that, is the top stitching. Stitching provides both strength and beauty to a boot top. By looking up close, beyond the distractions of the eye-catching inlays, good stitch-work allows you to stop for awhile and truly appreciate those things that go into a quality boot--good leather, strong thread, a classic form and careful craftsmanship.

Here are some characteristics of custom stitching compared to stitching on factory-produced cowboy boots:

One row is stitched at a time - Top stitching custom cowboy boots is done with a single-needle sewing machine, and it's done one row at a time. A craftperson guides the leather through the machine and lines up the rows parallel to each other, about 1/32 of an inch apart. It's meticulous work, and it can take years of practice to master.

Stitching and inlay - Next time you find yourself admiring an inlaid boot, notice the stitching that holds it all together. The best bootmakers will put two rows of stitching around an inlay or overlay pattern, when space allows. It's pretty amazing that someone can follow those tight curves and cut-outs; it's like looking at an area where lightning has struck more than once.

Original and historical designs - Stitch patterns can be just as beautiful and unique as inlay. Some stitch patterns were invented ages ago, but have been augmented over time. Other patterns were scribbled into existence (like you might do when you're talking on the phone). Some now deceased bootmakers are still remembered for their elaborate stitch-work; these include Mr. Ray Jones, who invented a sort of wild modern stitch (now carried on by his apprentice, Pablo Jass) and Mr. Willie Lusk, credited for the "inverted flame" stitch.

Artistic design - Stitching provides an element of movement that is a rare occurrence in inlaid cowboy boots. The finest stitch patterns can fill the space of a boot top and keep your eye traveling circuitously along the pattern's points and curves.

Signature stitching - Some stitching provides a clue to a boot's maker. Often near the sole of the boot, there is a short row or two of stitching on the side, which holds the reinforcing leathers (also called "fenders") in place. Keep an eye out for the "toebug" or "toe flower." A toe bug is the fancy stitch-work that dresses up the toe of the boot. Bootmakers will often choose one signature design and stick with it. This is so folks can easily identify the bookmaker without the wearer having to even lift their cuff.

Written by Kacy Suther. Brand name cowboy boots and western wear at The Boot Store online store for western apparel. Ariat boots, Justin boots more at western-wear-store.com