Gourmet Food Gems in Paris - Part III

Food is more of an art (and for some, a religion) in France, and if there's one thing the French know how to do well, it's food. So I knew I would be remiss in my duties if I did not go and seek out Paris's finest gastronomic glories for my readers of paris-eiffel-tower-news.com. Sampling the following is not optional – it's a must!!!

For the icing on the cake (no pun intended), I'll reveal to you in this third part two more Parisian gastronomic wonders, including a dessert: Berthillon's simply outstanding range of ice creams and sorbets on the charming St-Louis island.
Say Cheese!

Beside wine, what else are the French obsessed with? Cheese! The French passion for cheese and the proliferation of the stuff in their country is frankly unsurpassed. A famous quote from Charles de Gaulle goes, "How can you be expected to govern a country that has 246 kinds of cheese?"

The French are as serious about their cheese as they are about their wine, and so it comes as no surprise that, like wine, French cheese is protected by AOC laws (appellation d'origine contrôlée, name of a controlled origin). These laws allow only certain limited quantities of a particular cheese to be produced in order to prevent mass production ruining the subtle variations in French regional cheeses.

So, in search of the ultimate cheese repast, I asked my Parisian friends where the cheese crème de la crème (no pun intended) was to be found in France's capital. The answer was unanimous: "Androuet!"

And Androuet it was. I wandered over to their fromagerie (cheese shop) at 37, rue de Verneuil and was greeted with the most tantalizing displays of cheeses – you have to see it to believe it! The cheeses look a far sight different than what they laughingly call cheese in supermarkets – this is the real enchilada.

Family owned and run, Androuet was founded back in 1909 by the current owner's grandfather, and since then its people have been cultivating the art of the maître fromager affineur (cheese maturing master). The name is famous worldwide. Today, and to the great benefit of the Parisian population, the house of Androuet actually comprises 5 fine cheese shops in Paris alone and plans to open another one in the new Roissy airport! They even have a branch in Stockholm, Sweden's capital.

Androuet's cheeses hail from more than 200 different locations and are all exclusively made with raw milk. Each cheese is unique, cured and matured under the supervision of maîtres affineurs (masters in cheese ripening), and aged or prepared in curing cellars. You'll find Androuet's shops in all Parisian tourist guides, and I was told that their clientèle comes from all over the world – from the US to Japan.

Cheese is best accompanied with bread and wine, and Androuet specializes in the best. They provide a wide range of wines, from red Sancerre to Chateau Neuf du Pape, and work with two Parisian bakeries to supply you with some very decent bread to go with your cheese.

So you can get your cheese, your wine and your bread all in one fell swoop, as well as excellent advice on all three free of charge. The staff speaks English, and a variety of other languages, so communication shouldn't be much of a problem... failing that, animated gesticulations punctuated by the odd use of random foreign words have always worked wonders for me abroad...

For those who want to take some of this priceless loot back home, Androuet provides air-tight and vacuum-sealed packages.

For Americans, you can check the US Customs & Border Protection website for the latest on food importing rules at help.cbp.gov, or the US Department of Agriculture's website (usda.gov). At the moment, they confirm that cured cheeses (i.e. hard cheeses like parmesan and cheddar) are generally admissible if imported for personal use, although this is subject to change depending on disease outbreaks. Keep in mind that you should declare them. Ask for advice from Androuet's staff – they'll be in the know about this.

A buffet-size assortment goes from 35 to 70 euros, and they do themed gourmet gift baskets, boxes and chests too. They even cater for private or business cheese-themed buffets with the whole nine yards: fresh and dried fruit, Poilane or Poujauran breads (see below), wine, candles, floral decorations etc.

Androuet in Paris (normal working hours Tuesday to Saturday, and they all close at 7:30 pm):

37, rue de Verneuil - 75007 Paris
Metro: Rue du Bac, Solférino (line 12).

134, rue Mouffetard - 75005 Paris
Metro: Censier Daubenton (line 7).

1, rue Bois le Vent - 75016 Paris
Metro: La Muette (line 9), Passy (line 6).

17, rue des Belles-Feuilles - 75016 Paris
Metro: Victor Hugo (line 2), Trocadéro (lines 6, 9).

23, rue de la Terrasse - 75017 Paris
Metro: Villiers (lines 2, 3).
And Now for a Spot of Dessert...

I think it's safe to say that Berthillon sets the standard for ice cream and sorbet... Not only in Paris, but all of France – and quite possibly, the world.

Berthillon's typically Parisian ice cream parlor is located right in the middle of the Ile St-Louis, a small island on the Seine River which is itself a major tourist attraction. The St Louis Island is a charming little miniature Paris with quaint restaurants and hotels. In the early 20th century, its inhabitants fancied their specificity, and 'seceded' from France to become the 'Republic of the St Louis Island'. One of those French loopy ideas!

Most of the food stores, tea parlors, and restaurants on the St-Louis Island advertise that they stock Berthillon ice cream. Yet there's only one Berthillon tea parlor. The company is owned and operated by the Chauvin family, descendants of the eponymous Monsieur Berthillon who opened the first shop in 1954. The parlor is smart, wood-paneled inside and out, an elegant version of Friendly's in America.

Berthillon sells its ice cream in bulk and by the scoop from its parlor, but many other retailers in Paris sell their ice cream in cones and cups, and some grocers sell larger amounts.

Any guilt you may feel at indulging can be laid to rest because Berthillon's fame derives in part from its use of natural ingredients. Their sweets contain absolutely no chemical preservatives, sweeteners, or stabilizers. The ice cream is made with nothing else than milk, cream and eggs, and the flavorings are natural: cocoa, vanilla, fruit etc.

In terms of flavor, we go way beyond 'Chunky Monkey' and 'Fish Food'. Get ready for something altogether more refined and, in the final analysis, much more tantalizing for the old taste buds (which should be stimulated rather than assaulted). We're talking pear sorbet that tastes to me more of pear than an actual pear does; green apple; wild strawberry ("fraise des bois"); coffee; honey nougat; prune Armagnac... All to die for.

Keep in mind that the French don't scoff, they 'déguste' (savor with relish) – so if you're expecting large Ben & Jerry's portions like you get in the US, you'll be disillusioned. But then again, that may not be so bad as far as our waist-lines are concerned...

Unfortunately, Berthillon's excellence is no secret. There is always a long line of eager customers no matter when you go, and it's even worse during hot weather. Trust me though, the trip is worth it.

I do like their hours though – open from 10 am with a late 8 pm closing time, I know my evening cravings will be catered for – well, at least from Wednesday to Sunday, as sadly they are closed the rest of the week. Also, much to my chagrin, I found out the place is not opened for business during a large part of the summer holidays (a relatively common occurrence in France). Yet all is not lost since we can always get our Berthillon fix from the other ice cream shops and tea parlors on the Island!

For a taste of Bertillon's habit-forming, gourmet glories, get onto Ile Saint-Louis: walk down the left side of Notre Dame; at the back of the Cathedral, cross the bridge to your left onto Ile Saint-Louis; then, hang a right on Rue St-Louis en l'Ile, and go to number 31 on the right side of the street. Or go by Metro and get off at the Pont Marie station, and cross the bridge. When you get to the central street of the island, make a hard left, and the shop stands right there, on the opposite sidewalk.

Phil Chavanne has written numerous articles on Parisian best-kept-secrets. His free travel guide offers many tips and advices to help you experience the city to the fullest on your next trip to the French capital. Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News.com also gives you ways to save on booking a Paris hotel.