Penang's very own Arcadia in the clouds - The Slow Train To Penang

Penang Hill is the state's foremost hill resort. Although it was originally called Flagstaff Hill, the locals have always affectionately referred to it as Penang Hill or Bukit Bendera. At about 830 metres (2,750 feet) from sea level, the temperature on the hilltop is considerably cooler than the nether lands. On regular weekdays, the hill is pretty quiet and can serve as a recuperative getaway, far from the madding crowd and city heat.

The name change from Penang Hill to Bukit Bendera (I don't quite remember when exactly) actually takes it back to the early days of Penang Hill, when a flag fluttering from a flagstaff or flagpole on Bel Retiro, the home of Penang's governor at the time, was used as a beacon, or signal 'transmitter' to Fort Cornwallis.

I left Singapore via a long train for Penang, Malaysia. I would be traveling up the Malay peninsular to Butterworth and then taking a short car ride over to the nearby Penang Island.

Trains still have three classes of travel. 1st, 2nd and 3rd. 3rd class is basic with no air conditioning, crowded. 2nd class has air conditioning and its more expensive. 1st class has air conditioning and is the most expensive - to be honest I don't know what the extra money is for. I suggest 2nd class is the best option. Traveling in Malaysia without air conditioning in a crowded carriage is not my idea of fun.

As the train pulled out and left the Island I got a good look at the bridges connecting Singapore and Malaysia. When you see how close the two shores are you realize that Singapore is only just an Island. For the British to believe in ""fortress"" Singapore was one of the most stupid military decisions in history. The Island is half surrounded by the end of the Malaysian peninsular and the small water break consists of almost flat water meaning any reasonable size craft can cross it. Singapore is indefensible without huge air superiority, and even then it is obvious the Northern shore never presented any real barrier. The change from modern Singapore to Malaysia is noticeable, with the buildings looking jaded with peeling paint and succumbing to harsh conditions of the tropics and obviously dating from colonial times.

The trip takes all day long and the train moves very slowly. As you past through various parts of Malaysia you get to see the occasional track side shanty but on the whole Malaysia doesn't show too many signs of poverty. When you get up to Kuala Lumpur, the capital, things once again change. As the capital of the country money has been poured in to modernize the city. When I visited the Petronas Twin Towers had not been completed, but the city was showing signs of massive change.

On the journey you past what remains of what was the largest tin mine in the world. The area is just a waste land, desert like and shows what bad mining practice can result in.

By the time you get to Butterworth it is dark. The station is very busy and its a long walk along the platform with your baggage particularly after a tiring days travel. Travel on the roads in Malaysia is a hair raising experience. Despite all roads being very heavy with traffic congestion no one seems to slow down and you can see bear chested men on motorcycles loaded up with mum and a child as well shoot up both sides of the a car or truck - very temporary citizens indeed. The Island has numerous resorts. The beaches however are ordinary as the water is brown (due to sediment) and hot. Is is difficult to cool off by having a swim in the ocean. Your best bet is to go for a swim in a pool which is likely to be cooler. There are temples that can be visited and the odd park. The parks give a great idea of what steaming jungles this part of the world has with the wild calls of monkeys making a huge racket.

As Malaysia continues to modernize I hope they don't forget to keep the uniqueness of the country which attracts visitors from across the world.

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